Trio – the work of a master

It took celebrated gastronomic maestro Péter Buday a full six months to be satisfied with the offerings at his latest restaurant, or as the menu card states, „A gastronomic haven”, Trio Étterem.

 

The name actually refers to a triptych of endeavors involving food and drink – the restaurant itself, a patisserie and gourmet café – all nestled in a cozy and unassuming neighborhood in the Buda hills. The restaurant is comprised of two levels, each with its own distinct focus and menu. The bottom floor is a more-casual yet refined beer and wine hall with an excellent buffet perfectly suited to business lunches. It includes an imaginative salad bar, various soups and hearty mains.

 

The more elegant upper level is clearly aimed at discerning and experienced gastronomic buffs who demand the best in preparation, presentation and originality. Mr. Buday does not disappoint; it is clear that he is an artist of a chef, meticulous in the scope and texture of flavors that he’s sampled from around the world, although in name only the dishes are largely French and Hungarian. In content, they are highly original, and in taste, they are out of this world.

 

While making a single choice from the menu is nearly impossible, this was never the chef’s intention in the first place. Rather, a procession of dishes – soup, salad, main, dessert – suggest that one experience each taste as a step up or down an emotional ladder. Mr. Buday explained that this procession mirrors the path that strong life experiences, such as love, take: pride, empowerment, lust, dedication and so on. To accompany each dish there is also a corresponding wine selection that most properly complements the food. The selection process took months of full-time work, and represents anything but arbitrariness.

 

Many a Budapest eating establishment can be accused of ruining an otherwise good meal with terrible music, art, or decoration. Not so at Trio, where selected jazz standards can be heard softly in the background during the day, and a live trio of performers takes to the room in the evenings. Indeed, Mr. Buday sees music as an inspiration: from jazz to reggae to classical to folk, he often creates dishes based on the intricacies of musical creation.

 

Rounding out the experience in consuming food and wine at Trio is the elegant décor and impeccable service. Natural light is in high abundance during the day, keeping the otherwise elegant place settings from getting stuffy or out of date. Servers are attentive and knowledgeable yet don’t distract from the main event. Despite the complexity of the food, you will not be kept for ages waiting for it to arrive at the table; rather, it is well worth spending an extended evening savoring each thought-provoking bite.

 

Dinner upstairs at Trio is a special experience, and the city’s elite are known to fashion the place, in addition to Mr. Buday’s previous success story Matteo. Reservations are highly recommended; make yours soon and savor the mastery that is Trio Étterem. Bon appetite!