Situated in what originally functioned as a seventeenth century monastery, the thespian themed Rivalda restaurant and café sits atop the historic castle district, perched next to the National Dance Theater – formally known as the Várszínház (Castle Theater), Hungary’s first theatrical institution.
Founded by well-travelled former Gundel and Hotel InterContinental chef György Gunst and Canadian-Hungarian Ágnes Weninger, the latter now resides in Crete, and György’s been left at Rivalda’s helm. As chef as well as owner, György remains very much active in the kitchen, from designing the menu, through sourcing ingredients himself from the local market, to getting fully involved in the kitchen – he has a habit of ruining ties in there, as we discovered. With nothing of the stuffy restaurant owner about him, György explained that, wherever possible, Hungarian ingredients are used; however, the menu itself hasn’t always contained local culinary influences. Originally a solely French kitchen, it’s only been due to popular demand – the likes of repeated requests for Goulash, unsurprising in the tourist-riddled Castle District – that Hungarian influences have made their way in. This hasn’t taken the form of stock local fare, though, and instead, staples with a twist have been developed. As a result, though you’ll find goulash, it’s of the wild boar variety, and the cream-filled commonplace somlói galuska has been tweaked to include walnuts and apricot brandy, rather than rum.
Though many parts of the menu are now fairly fixed – some having weathered the test of time since the restaruant’s opening ten years ago – there are also seasonally changing set menus within. On its way out (due to be replaced in March with a lighter, spring selection) is the Winter Warmer Menu, as well as a Valentine’s Menu in time for the day of lovers – both fixed, multi-course and complete with optional set wine pairings. We went for one of each, and opted for wine to go with.
Both began with a ruccola salad with caramelized pumpkin and herbed goat’s cheese served with polenta croutons, toasted pumpkin seeds and honey-balsamic vinaigrette, which made a welcome change to the mass-use of iceberg in so many salads here. A creamy wild mushroom bisque with roasted walnuts and an equally creamy cream of pumpkin soup with more toasted pumpkin seeds followed, for the Winter and Valentine’s Menus respectively. The latter usually comes with sweet potato vichyssoise with trumpet mushrooms, but György was keen for me to try the pumpkin soup instead – which had apparently been used in some kind of documentary filmed in the Castle District. At this point, two glasses of Nyakas Don Oliver, 2008 had arrived – a fresh, safe but fitting choice.
The Winter Menu’s main course was a hearty, grilled venison medallion with pumpkin duchesse and juniper berry-merlot sauce, which arrived just before a rich Szent Gaál, 2006 Kékfrankos. The Valentine’s Menu’s slightly lighter main was a poached salmon fillet with chive gnocchi and a sweet, cream-laden almond sauce. My alternative had been a rosé breast of duck stuffed with foie gras with dried sour cherry couscous and cabernet cassis. I think the salmon ended up being only slightly less heavy; but then, you could always wok it off with a romantic post-dinner stroll around the twinkling castle district. Before we did just that, crème brûlée served in apple and a chocolate ganache – a warm, freshly-baked chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream – arrived; both worth saving room for.
Perhaps not the best time of year to have visited, a peek into the adjoining courtyard revealed what’s a notoriously stunning and popular spot during the summer months, as the ivy-surrounded space is filled with tables, umbrellas and an open grill. Until then, though, you’ll have to make do with treating your visiting guests after taking in the Castle District’s sights or before a National Dance Theater performance – which is perhaps what Rivalda’s best for – to theater production-themed paraphernalia. Though perhaps not the most progressive of restaurants here, Rivalda does dining in the old school sense, and isn’t necessarily any the worse for that. And the location’s second to none.
From the Menu
Starters
Escargot baked with garlic and cheese
Soups
Pheasant consommé with mascarpone gougère
Mains
Wild boar stew with gnocchi, bacon and ewe cheese
Desserts
Orange crêpe with cinnamon ice-cream and Grand Marnier sauce
Rivalda Café & Restaurant
1014 Budapest, Színház utca 5-9.
Open daily, 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m