Armed with the task of showing three foodies around beloved Budapest in just five days, I knew that my restaurant choices would be critical. I got lucky. Five fantastic restaurants later and “amazing Hungarian food” was all my guests were talking about. So, I thought I’d share the foodie love-tips…
Menza
The name of this ultra retro and super atmospheric restaurant translates literally as “Canteen”. But a canteen it is not. No siree, just take a look at its vast and appetizing menu and you’ll see what I mean. To give you an idea, our party tasted whole grilled trout with grilled vegetables and baked potatoes, chicken breast in langós (seeing is believing) with salad and a good old traditional veal porkölt with galuska. For pudding the Menza chocolate cake is divine, and the sweet dumplings (served in a large pyrex bowl no less) are gigantic (and tasty!). Choose something from the weekly menu if you fancy something a little different – we ventured a hazelnut mousse with strawberries which was more than moreish. So you could say that Menza covers a lot of ground, which makes it the perfect place to take a Budapest newbie. Plus, the atmosphere is a knockout. Inside, the retro décor is to-die-for, the music smooth, the staff friendly (with great language skills, I should probably add), the wine list-long… and the terrace. Well it’s on Liszt Ferenc square. Need I say more?
1061 Budapest, Liszt Ferenc tér 2
Tel.: +36.1.413.1482 (reservations necessary)
www.menza.co.hu
M
You’d be forgiven for thinking that us lot at FUNZINE have been having a love affair with French-Hungarian bistro M for quite some time now. It’s true. For as long as the restaurant keeps it cute brown-papered walls and their food is sassy and experimental, our love will stay strong. Tucked away on Kertesz utca, M is the seventh district’s best kept secret. Its interior, spread over two levels, may be diminutive but its certainly original. The walls are completely covered in brown paper, and all the usual room adornments ( fireplace, shelves, light fittings… gramophone) are all doodled onto it with black marker pen. The tablecloths, made of brown paper and fixed down with brown string, are a free scribbling ground too. Do your worst! Sometimes it can get a little hot upstairs, but once the French music starts and one of the friendly waiters/waitresses flashes you a huge smile, somehow the temperature is all forgotten. The menu changes every few days and is updated on the M blog. The dishes, which start at just 1,600 HUF for a main course, are based on which ingredients are in season. Our party opted for the vegetarian surprise (don’t ask what it is… they won’t tell you), duck breast with strawberry sauce and mashed potato and chicken leg alla cacciatore, washed down with a not too pricey white from Balaton. There was no room for dessert, but if there was I’m sure the elderflower cake or chocolate fondant would have gone down a treat.
1075 Budapest, Kertész utca 48
Tel.: +36. 1.322.3108/ 20.940.29.28
http://mrestaurant.blogspot.com
Klassz
It may be on Andrássy, but Klassz doesn’t hike up its prices. Hey, it’s so casual that it doesn’t even take bookings. Don’t be deceived by the huge circular tables draped with white table clothes, massive wine glasses and ultra-trendy décor: the place isn’t over the top or stuffy, it is relaxed and in a word, Klassz. Peer to the back of the restaurant and you’ll see the Klassz wine bar which is tucked away and nicely separated from the restaurant area. In the restaurant you can still reap all the benefits of the wine menu though: pretty much all the wines are sold by the glass, and the staff know what they’re talking about too. During our visit, the service was swift and we enjoyed our elegant yet hearty food: we tried shoulder of lamb with saffron and fennel potatoes, beef cheek with spinach and mushrooms, a white asparagus risotto and a butter fish fillet with asparagus. The ingredients had been thoughtfully combined and put Hungarian cuisine in a new light: a lighter light if you will. There was even room for dessert: we enjoyed chocolate cake, crème brulée and some gorgeous dessert wine. Don’t let the absence of reservations put you off this place. I’ve been four times and have never had to wait for a table. Next time your strolling down Budapest’s gorgeous boulevard, drop in, even if it’s just for a glass of wine, and soak up the Klasszy atmosphere.
1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 41
www.klassz.eu.
Café Kör
Possibly the most popular restaurant in Budapest, Café Kör is full of surprises. From the exterior it’s nothing out the ordinary: sure, it’s situated on the beautiful Sas utca, just a few steps from the Basilica, but its bistro interior doesn’t appear to be different from any other. Yet give it five minutes, or maybe just two, and you’ll see why it’s so darn busy. The staff are contenders for the most entertaining and charming in the capital. Pure class. And the menu will have you “umming and ahhing” for ages. There’s an extensive specials board too, pinned on the wall, which is worth a gander. My guests enjoyed the spit roast mix with a spicy sauce and roasted potatoes (I have this every time, it’s amazing), an interesting chicken and peach dish and a melt-in-your-mouth stew. Pudding was all about the fresh strawberries and ice cream. I found out about this place from a couple of English actors living in Budapest. Like me, they just couldn’t quite do the place justice in words. All I can say is go along, experience it and you’ll be back over and over again. It won’t break the bank either.
1051 Budapest, Sas utca 17.
Tel.: +36.1.311.0053 (reservations necessary)
www.cafekor.com
Mosselen
Mosselen’s a funny one: a Belgian pub full of Hungarian locals, serving an eclectic mix of international food. It’s name, of course, means mussels, and yes the eponymous mussels are nothing short of brilliant: served in one of four different sauces alongside a huge plate of chunky chips. Needless to say, I chose mussels on this occasion too, in an instant in fact, yet I got the impression that my guests just couldn’t quite get their heads around the very, very long humorous menu. The menu is separated by the type of meat/fish/vegetarian specialty offered. We sampled Santiago’s Supper (a sea food mix fried in garlic oil with potatoes), Hazy Future (salmon with rocket and Tagliatelle), Chicken of the New Era (strips of pan fried chicken breast with grilled vegetables and seasoned potatoes) and Get Rich, Build a Highway! (pork with feta cheese, wrapped in bacon and filled with hot peppers). The presentation is quirky to say the least, and the portions gargantuan. And I couldn’t talk about this place without mentioning the vast selection of Belgian beers, served in unusual vessels. If you’re feeling really daring (or have had a stressful week) I’d recommend the Giraffe: pulling pints at your own table is about as fun as it gets… until you check out the decadent dessert menu.
1136 Budapest, Pannonia utca 14
Tel.: +36 1 452 0535
www.mosselen.hu