In a nook of Budapest’s bustling seventh district, we stumbled upon a spicy little eatery, a deffo will-be-fave of those hungry for authentic South-Asian flavors. Kohinoor, a vibrant gastro-hub, brings Asia to Budapest and proves by the power of culinary delights that Pakistan and India need not always be thought of as rivals. By creating a mind-blowing fusion of Pakistani and Indian cuisine combining the eclectic meat dishes of Pakistan with the colorful vegetable dishes of India, they like to remember that the two countries were once united.
Kohinoor is an exciting addition to an already bright selection of B-town’s Indian resto-scape. But they didn’t just jump on the resto-India bandwagon; their vast menu includes not only Indian, but several delicious Pakistani dishes that are not offered anywhere else in the city.
This time, when we say we’ve found a little gem, we literally mean it, as Kohinoor was named after a spectacular diamond found over 5,000 years ago. As with a true rough diamond, the interior is simple but authentic and the staff amiable. A swanky affair it is not, but the food betrays the benefits of generations of knowledge and traditional expertise.
Arriving for a pretty early dinner on Friday, the place was surprisingly busy, which, according to our talkative server, is common. The restaurant, opened a couple of years ago by Pakistani Tariq Ismail, has a team of both Pakistani and Indian chefs who guarantee that everything is genuinely prepared according to original recipes from their respective regions. We also learnt that many of the ingredients used – most importantly, the spices – are imported directly from their home countries, for optimal authenticity.
Our dining team opted for a huge starter plate jam-packed with all sorts of goodies, the likes of vegetable pakoras (fried in spicy chickpea batter), onion rings, chickpea samosas and shammi kebab – a typical Pakistani rissole with minced meat and a mix of 12 different spices. It came with the most delicious mango chutney I’ve ever tried and the usual mint yogurt dip.
I was curious about what a place like this could offer vegetarians, so I opted for the veggie dish, Milli Jhulli Tarkari, a great mix of vegetables (served in a cute bowl, by the way) prepared slightly on the spicy side. Think peas, tomatoes, paneer (fresh, home-made cheese), a touch of onion and a secret mix of spices; well-balanced, filling and bursting with flavor.
While vegetarians will find plenty to please at Kohinoor, to really get a taste of Pakistan, meat-eaters have a head start. My dining companions went for carnivorous fare, and the Hot Lahori Chicken, made with tomato-garlic sauce and ginger, furthered with a Lahori spice mix, came particularly recommended for those deeply in love with the rich and spicy.
The accompanying Naan breads were out of this world, by the way; served piping hot, with fresh herbs and a spot-on texture. In particular, the Kabuli Naan was a standout, filled with chickpea mash.
To see how well something simple could be done here, and in aid of a comparison with other places in town, we also went for a Tandoori chicken drumstick dish. And it rose to the challenge: tender on the inside, crispy on the outside, served with Pakistan’s finest rice, Basmati Chawal.
For something truly Pakistani, though, try Karachi Nihari or Haleem Khass, both beef dishes, which came highly recommended by our waiter. The latter is a lentil and minced beef stew, slow-cooked for 5-6 hours before serving.
Leaving the place, we were offered a pinch of anise to minimize the effect of all those spices in our tummies – authentic to the end. So, did Kohinoor offer a fine Friday night curry? Absolutely; but it offered a learning curve too – a lesson in the art of Pakistani and Indian cuisines, and how beautifully they can work together. Home delivery and takeaway, too – need we say more?
From the menu
Starters
Kohinoor Plate (for 3)
(Onion rings, cauliflower pakora, potato pakora, paprika pakora, samosa, shammi kebab and chicken samosa with mango chutney and mint sauce)
Main Courses:
Milli Jhulli Tarkari
Hot Lahori Chicken
Tandoori Chicken Drumstick
Side dishes, naans
Garlic Naan
Kabuli Naan (filled with chick peas)
Kheema Naan (filled with minced chicken)
Basmati Chawal (Pakistan’s finest rice)
Kohinoor Tel.: +36.1.787.9105 Open: every day from 1 a.m. – 11 p.m. www.kohinooretterem.hu