Strawberries sitting pretty, miles of Magyar salami, piles of peppers – Budapest’s markets are irresistible, and the Great Market Hall is, well, the greatest of them all! We at FUNZINE go there almost daily, so even if you’ve already been there to purchase some paprika, here’s a hitlist of our fave haunts:
Strudel Heaven
On the main drag (central aisle) as you walk in from Fővám Square, you’ll find a simple strudel stand on your left. Everyone has their favorites, but we’re partial to túrós rétes, the cottage cheese kind, which they make here without raisins – a definitely plus.
The Nut Guy
After the strudel place, turn right at the greengrocer’s and you’ll find the nutty Nut Guy, who looks like a long-haired Rambo. Admire his array of cashews, almonds and peanuts (roasted, salted, unsalted and spiced), plus lots of dried fruit (even cranberries). Oh, and don’t miss the chocolate- and yogurt-covered yummies…
Pickled & Preserved
Head down the escalators at the back of the main hall to enter the world of savanyúság, Hungary’s peculiar pickling passion. Ask (just use gestures) for a taste of sour-sweet mini-melons, csalamádé cabbage with varying amounts of hot peppers, or pretty purple beets. Grab a bag to take home, or some arranged prettily in a jar!
Asian Delight
Continue on past the pickles and you’ll find Asia Bt., a treasure trove of foods exotic and comforting – it all depends on your perspective, right? Find jasmine or Japanese rice, curry powder or kurkuma, tortellini or arrabiata, frozen sole or soybeans, and every kind of tea you could imagine…
Homemade to Take Home
Dairy products made the old-fashioned way, and all organic? Yep, at the back of the hall (walk past the weird mushroom displays and the pet food shop) find Cserpes Sajtműhely, selling yummy yogurt, sour cream and cheeses. Try the gomolya from this place or the one next to it, spiced with chives or garlic. Grill it and serve with a salad!
Souvenirs and Trivia
Hike up the stairs to see the city’s largest indoor market (10,000 m2) in all its glory. Built in 1896, the goodies used to float in from the Danube on underground canals, arriving underneath the hall, or ride right inside on freight trains! While you’re up there, be a consummate tourist and buy a silly t-shirt or a piece of pretty porcelain (too bad those Zsolnay ceramic tiles on the roof aren’t for sale). There are indeed some lovely leather bags to be had, and hot Hungarian food for a quick and authentically Magyar lunch…
Great Market Hall (Vásárcsarnok)
1092 Budapest, Fővám tér 1-3.
Open Mon. 6 a.m.-5 p.m.,
Tue.-Fri. 6 a.m.-6 p.m.,
Sat. 6 a.m.-3 p.m.