Breaking the stereotype of basement spaces being reserved for smoky bars and casual eateries, Meridon sets itself apart from other restaurants in Budapest with its attention to detail. Upon descending the stairs, we found an elegant, pleasant restaurant in perhaps the lightest, airiest basement we’ve encountered thus far.
They have created simple elegance, putting the elements of the basement space to good use. Exposed white bricks give an urban feel reflective of Budapest’s unique use of its older buildings, while straight lines and a warm orange and brown color scheme make the space welcoming. A love of wine is evident from the first glance, as prized bottles are artfully displayed throughout the space. Earning instant points with us was the fact that the restaurant is divided into two separate rooms: one non-smoking dining room, and one smoking lounge and dining area. Despite sitting at the table nearest the lounge, we did not notice any smoke wafting our way.
Everything from the cloth napkins to the excellent service and beautiful presentation of the food is clearly carefully thought out. The various foreign parties at the restaurant on the evening of our visit are a testament to their international standards.
After perusing the menu, we found several tempting dishes to try. To start, I settled on a garden salad with garlic vinaigrette and roasted tofu with sesame seeds. The presentation of the salad was simply beautiful, with the tofu taking center stage rather than hiding among the baby lettuce leaves. The flavors were as pleasing as the appearance, with crisp vegetables (in February) and excellent tofu. My companion chose the homemade smoked salmon mignon with wasabi cream and pickled artichokes for something a bit more exotic. It too was artfully presented, with his salad cupped in a halved red bell pepper and the salmon pieces fanned out across the plate.
When it came to entrees, I was absolutely taken with the description of the venison in fresh cranberries and bitter chocolate sauce. Something one does not find at every restaurant, it was as incredible as it sounds. The meat was cooked perfectly and the sauces divine. The accompanying potato doughnuts with pistachios were fluffy, not at all greasy, and a lovely way to soak up any stray sauce. Simply put, it was a decadent experience.
Sticking with seafood, my dinner companion decided on a tuna steak fried in butter with garlic seasoned black mussels, fried eggplant and garlic-seasoned aioli. The tuna steak was juicy and rare, as it should be, and a sizable portion. From across the table, he seemed to be quite pleased with his choice.
I should mention that the wine list at Meridon has a great selection of Hungarian wines as well as selections from the major wine producing areas around the world. Wine is an important part of Meridon, and they arrange special wine dinners. We decided to ask our server for his recommendation and he happily obliged, offering us each a wine well suited to our desires and chosen entrees. For those more hesitant to ask, the menu suggests a wine to accompany each of its dishes.
When it came to dessert, one of us had to try the chocolate soufflé with homemade poppy seed parfait and sour cherries. Seeing as I’d just had chocolate for my main course, I left this to my companion. I opted for the pomegranate crème brûlée. The fruit created a lovely pink topping, although it was extremely sweet. If you don’t have a strong sweet tooth, as I do, you may be better off with the soufflé or the Sicilian lime cake with limoncello sauce.
We were pleased to find that everything we ordered delivered what the menu promised and more. This is one of few places in Budapest where a beautiful appearance does not compete with the quality of the food, but rather reflects the care placed in the preparation.
Text by Meg George
Photos by Daniel Freeman
Starters
Garden Salad with Garlic Vinaigrette andRoasted Tofu with Sesame Seeds
Homemade Smoked Salmon Mignon with Wasabi Cream and Pickled Artichokes
Mains
Tuna Steak Fried in Butter, with Garlic-seasoned Black Mussels, Fried Aubergine and Garlic- Seasoned Aioli
Deer Sirloin with Fresh Cranberry in a Bitter Chocolate Sauce Served with Potato Doughnut and Pistachio
Desserts
Chocolate Soufflé, Homemade Poppy Seed Parfait with Sour Cherries Laced with Rum
Pomegranate Crème Brûlée with Pistachio „Brittle”
Meridon Restaurant & Wine Club
1055 Budapest, Mark
ó u. 33.
Tel.: +36.1.354.0263
