Imagine looking out over snow-dusted vineyards, feeling like you are sitting outside, yet cozily enclosed in a warm, elegant setting. Add in near-perfect food and wine and that is what you will find at Cinnamon Restaurant.
Exhibiting a knack for perfection from the top-level winery that has made a name for itself the world over, Cinnamon is given similar treatment as a simply terrific place to wine and dine. Chef James McClure, already renowned since his arrival in Budapest for his celebrated catering service JP Cuisine, changes the menu every two weeks, working with whatever he can get fresh and creating a laid-back, almost Californian experience that is certain to both impress customers with the quality of the foods and yet set them at ease with the casual flair of the environment.
The winery is located just outside of Budapest in Etyek, adding to its calm and picturesque charm. It is easily reached by car, and the restaurant will gladly arrange transportation for parties small or large, so there is no reason not to venture out for a great meal accompanied by the wines produced on location.
While the restaurant is surely at its peak in the summer months, when dining takes place on an open, shaded terrace and life on a vineyard lazing the days away seems just about ideal, it makes for a welcome winter retreat as well. A day spent in the homely and quiet surroundings, walking among the austere grapevines and tasting some of the many excellent whites and rosés in the “wine vault” gives way to a fine meal, taking time to savor each bite or sip.
The menu includes something for everyone, from cheese and ham plates to exotic fish dishes to Hungarian favorites. On recommendation, we began with a glass of wine, my companion tasting the Dűlőszelektált Cuveé ‘06 and I the Zenit Király Leánya ’06, voted Best of Budapest in 2007. Light and aromatic, this happy beginning was accompanied by homemade olive bread with olive oil, salts, balsamic vinegar and fresh parmesan.
For appetizers, I was tempted by the seasonal mushroom soup special which turned out to be superb, thick with mushrooms and a little bite to it. My companion opted for the wok fried chili squid and remarked that, “this is the kind of dish that makes people like squid.”
The fact that fish is flown in fresh means that Cinnamon continues to provide fine dining even in the winter months. Excited by this opportunity my companion ordered with the grilled mahi mahi, a large portion that he chose to have Cajun style, and reported that this kind of citrus-tangy-spicing could only be learned by a chef with truly personal experience.
For my own entrée, I tried the roasted duck breast in ginger, curry and light Indian spices. It was tender and flavorful, and the sautéed vegetables next to it were excellent. The dish was satisfying without being too heavy, and while certainly large, it was not overfilling.
The dessert was no question for us. While the chocolate mousse and banana flambé were absolutely tempting, New York cheesecake is hard to come by in Hungary, and proved to be a great choice. Made with Philadelphia Cream Cheese and a graham cracker crust, it reminded us of home.
We left satisfied, relaxed and reluctant to return to the bustle of the city. The kind of place where you can count on good food and an ideal atmosphere, Haraszthy Vallejo Winery and Cinnamon restaurant has accomplished a great thing, pairing excellence and refinement in food and wine with a beautiful setting. You won’t be disappointed.
Meg George
Photos by Daniel Freeman
Menu
Starters
Seasonal Mushroom Soup
Wok fried chili squid
Mains
Roasted duck breast in ginger, curry and light Indian spices
Grilled Mahi Mahi in Cajun spices
Dessert
New York cheesecake
Wines
Zenit Király Leánya ’06
Dűlőszelektált Cuveé ‘06
Address:
2091 Etyek,
Öteghegy 3115 hrsz.
15 km outside Budapest, 20 minutes by car
