Next to the ever-bustling Ferenciek tere, perches one of the oldest and most prestigious restaurants of the Hungarian capital, Kárpátia, boasting a life span almost unheard of in an industry where companies appear and disappear, change hands or change profile almost daily. Kárpátia was opened back in 1877, survived world wars, regime and system changes and is still alive and well. We ventured out, hoping to discover their secret.
Entering Kárpátia Restaurant, not only was I amazed by its sheer size (it can seat as many as 260 people, not counting the tranquil terrace) but felt as if I had just travelled back into my great-grandparents’ time. The interior, decorated in gilded Romantic style, oozes a turn-of-the-century, relaxed but classy atmosphere, complete with finely-crafted furniture, beautiful period paintings of key battles in Hungarian history on the hand-painted walls, sculptures and elegant Gothic arches. And bow-tied, waist-coated waiters, of course. No wonder, then, that the interior decoration has been protected under national heritage since 1957. The pub area offers simpler dishes and lower prices and features separate boxes, ensuring that you’re undisturbed by others, while the grand Music Room with white table clothed tables and wonderful chandeliers, serves live gypsy music nightly besides lavish courses, delivered by Lajos Sárközi and his band – apparently, they can play virtually everything your ears are hungry for, from Magyar folk songs to Liszt rhapsodies, international evergreens to jazz. To top it all, you can choose from three separate rooms and a charming salon, each having a seating capacity of 30 – ideal for a family gathering or a business event.
But let’s get down to business, I mean, food. The irony of the capital’s culinary landscape is that though countless restaurants downtown claim to offer “traditional, authentic Hungarian cuisine”, it’s not easy to steer clear of high-priced tourist traps and find quality Hungarian food. As the owner, Ákos Niklai told us, Kárpátia Restaurant’s concept is built upon using original Hungarian and Transylvanian recipes and first-class ingredients, as well as cooking everything fresh to order (except for töltött káposzta, stuffed cabbage, which, as every Magyar is quick to point out, tastes best when reheated). In fact, the restaurant prides itself on reforming Hungarian cuisine, asserting that there is much more to it than putting paprika in everything. However, this doesn’t mean that they follow the hip fusion trends of the millennium, claiming that Hungarian cuisine is good as it is and “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. The taste is virtually the same as several decades ago; however, the chefs at Kárpátia use less fat and more fruits and vegetables than their forefathers and serve smaller (but still generous) portions and less heavy dishes.
We started our dining adventure with a platter, featuring typical Hungarian hors d’oeuvres – think spicy Mangalica salami and sausage and excellent goose liver, served on homemade fresh bread. We were then treated to some főzelék, a seasonal offering of the restaurant, along with game dishes. My green bean főzelék was creamy and bursting with flavor, a far-cry from the usual flour-filled dish they shamelessly serve at many places, and my dining companion’s buttery spinach version was also up to scratch. For my main course, I opted for veal filet from the weekly menu, with paprika-mushroom sauce and cottage cheese soufflé, and I wasn’t disappointed. The meat was tender and juicy, while the soufflé was light, fluffy and airy. I also sampled my dining companion’s pörkölt, or actually pörkölts, as there were three different kinds, chicken, veal and beef, served in cute little bowls. They were spicy but not over-spiced with paprika and… well, just like my late grandma used to make them, which is not bad, considering that she was the best cook ever, in my eyes at least.
To round off my multi-course lunch, fit for a king, I sampled the restaurant’s somlói kocka, yummy vanilla sponge cake with walnut, raisins (soaked in Tokaj wine), chocolate and a hint of rum, sitting on creamy vanilla custard– heavenly.
Now I know that the restaurant’s secret is the harmony of its four pillars: food and wine (only Hungarian, from ten wine regions), decoration, people (amiable staff), atmosphere and music.
From the menu
Soups
Chicken broth with noodles and fresh vegetables
Main course
Transylvanian style stuffed cabbage with homemade sausage and sour cream
Magyar grey cattle fillet steak, potato cake with ewe-cheese, grilled green pepper cream
Dessert
Piquant sour cherry strudel with cinnamon mousse
Kárpátia Restaurant
1053 Budapest, Ferenciek tere 7-8.
Tel.: +36.1.317.3596
www.karpatia.hu