Just over one month old, Restogabor is the result of one man’s long-standing passion and enthusiasm for fine food and wine, extensive knowledge and experience, and, above all, a desire to make customers eminently happy. Gábor Sédi’s the man behind the brand-new venture, and we spoke to him about oenology, early mornings, steaming hot croissants and nettles…
Restogabor is nestled into what may not initially be an obvious choice for a restaurant: an ultra-modern housing development on the outskirts of the city. The fact that it’s not in the center, though, claims Gábor, is one of its strengths. “We’re not surrounded by the bustle of Váci utca or Vörösmarty tér; there aren’t any crowds or traffic jams here.” Instead, “here, you can sit outside on the grass in the sunshine, with a coffee or a glass of wine, and listen to the birds singing. Out here, the pace is slower. We’re not an in-out, high turn-over kind of place. We can afford to take our time over things, and as a result we can pay real quality-attention to guests and their feedback, and really listen.” In fact, when asked what he thought the three key criteria for a successful restaurant were, an answer came immediately: “Food, service and design…”, and the charming service was indeed one of the first things we noticed.
It’s not just the service that makes Restogabor worth the trip out of the city. The menu is meticulously thought out, imaginative and seasonal, and begins with the monthly-changing chef’s recommendations. Rather than adhering to the current trend of quarterly changing full menus, the aim is to incorporate and be inspired by as many seasonal ingredients as possible, as “if we only changed it every three months, we’d miss out on so many things!”
The choice is wide, and the menu, rather than being driven by one nationality or a fusion of two, appears influenced by a range of national styles and cuisines. The fish soup I had to start, for example, was of the creamy red-curry variety, and included salmon, mussels and king-prawns. It was, by the way, nothing short of divine. My main consisted of salmon roasted in lemon pepper on a garlic nettle bed aside gratin potatoes, and my dining companion enjoyed chicken breast served with crispy green tea leaves, saffron rice and a cheese sauce. The offbeat flavor and ingredient combinations made for dishes that, without wishing to gush, were superb. For dessert, we opted for one of the seasonal chef’s recommendations, another quirky number from the specials selection: strawberry sushi. Though dubious, the result was, again, stunning. Beautifully presented strawberries encased in creamy, sweet sushi rice arrived wrapped in fresh mint pancakes and cut into nori rounds. These arrived accompanied by a balsamic vinegar and honey drizzle and a fresh strawberry and honey compote. Finely carved wooden chopsticks were delicately placed astride the elegant combination. When asked where the idea came from, Gábor gestured towards his head and made a “poofing” sound… If for no other reason than this dish, get yourself there before it makes way for others in the specials selection.
The origin of ingredients at Restogabor is also worth a mention. The nettles had been hand-picked from a field in Rákospalota, far away from traffic and pollution. The chicken came from a country village farm, and all milk used is of similar origin. Perhaps the most leg-work, though, has gone into the coffee, provided by a young company in Etyek, who tasted 150 different varieties in Italy before settling upon their signature blend. There are also no big brands, so you won’t see things like Heineken or coke on the menu. Instead, expect tipples like Austrian mineral water infused with pear and elderflower.
“If I couldn’t cook”, Gábor says, “I’d go crazy!” In-between rustling up inspired combinations, though, he’s had time to study oenology (wine and viniculture), and the wine list echoes the unconventional menu and aversion to big brands: here you’ll find smaller vineyards and names you’ve never heard of, but the Konyári chardonnay we sampled was testament to the fact that big names aren’t always the way to go.
The restaurant manages to ooze class (think cream leather, smooth black and pine surfaces and floor to ceiling windows), while remaining inviting and quirky (arrive, and you’ll stroll over hundreds of scattered wine corks under thick glass). They also serve breakfasts from 7 a.m., which include freshly baked croissants, and, we’re assured, if you just want to roll up with your laptop or a book and sip coffee all day, that’s fine too.
It’s not as easy to reach as some places in town, we won’t lie to you, but the results of the passion and attention to fine detail that so obviously drive Gábor and his “first and last restaurant” are worth taking the trip out into the leafy sticks, trust us.
Restogabor can be reached via a ten minute taxi ride from the city, or by car.
From the menu:
Parma ham with home-made cheeses, walnut and fresh fruits
Grilled duck liver with toasted baguette, rosehip berry jam and leek crisps
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Grilled mangalica wrapped in bacon with mushroom stew and ewe cheese potatoes
Skewered shrimps and potatoes on a sesame chilli salad
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Chocolate brownie with rose mousse and candied rose petals
Home-made plum strudel with caramelised mascarpone cream
Amy Weston
Restogabor
1112 Budapest, Tippan utca 2.
Tel.: +36.1.877.5024
www.restogabor.hu