Among the top-tier of restaurants in Budapest one is likely to find a field dominated by two categories: Hungarian/European bistros serving delicacies from across the continent and exotic affairs offering something rarely seen this side of India. Standing alone in the crowd is Óceán bár & grill, known since it opened in 2003 as the only place to get the freshest, highest-quality seafood in Hungary.
Located just steps from the Marriott Hotel downtown and well-known to expatriates who came to Hungary from wetter and saltier climes, Óceán is a taste of home, albeit more than a bit fancier than fish n’ chips on the pier. Still catering mostly to this crowd, and thus cognizant of international standards of service and quality, the restaurant is steadily attracting more and more Hungarians looking to refine their tastes. In fact, one of the restaurant’s stated objectives is „to redefine the term ‘fresh seafood’ for the Budapest audience.” To do this they’ve compiled a wealth of information on their website about the health benefits of eating fish and other seafood, including information on proper selection, storage and preparation. The obvious place to choose from is the in-restaurant deli, open until 9pm and offering nearly everything on the menu.
Moving on to this important item, it should be mentioned here that Óceán serves more than just seafood, including a very-tempting choice selection of top-quality steaks, lamb chops, duck and more, sure to keep the steadfastly carnivorous happy. The seasonal menu and rotated specials reflect both the tastes of the customers and the specialties of renowned chef Giuseppe Mosti (formerly of Trattoria Toscana), whose experience at top-notch eateries from Tuscany to Mauritius has generated a menu of intricate variety. At the recommendation of our waiter we tried the saffron bouillabaisse, which I found to be a fragrant and remarkably full of large mussels and scallops, and the Piri-Piri, a dish of zesty and tender large prawns of Portuguese origin that had my dining companion raving. Apparently it’s been a crowd favorite for years.
Having grown up eating seafood in the northeast U.S., I was also happy to see on the menu a selection of items (including rarities such as sea bream, sole and monkfish) available from the grill or ordered to taste. Just as any good steak will come without any dressing-up, this is where the essence of seafood lies, in simply-prepared dishes that allow the original flavor to come through. We also tried the popular salmon selection, a mix of tastes from traditional (with asparagus and cracked pepper) to Hungarian (with dill and mashed potatoes) to special (in a succulent raviolo with butter and mushroom sauce). All were just right – tender and juicy.
If you haven’t stuffed yourself on the generous portions so far, spring for the Chocolate Delight, a sinfully delicious cake filled with molten chocolate, accompanied by an excellent blackcurrant digestif and/or coffee, which comes with four kinds of sugar. Indeed those on a budget but still wanting to impress a special someone could easily make a dessert-date here.
Service and décor during our visit were notably refined, with smiling multi-lingual waiters attending an international crowd; never overbearing, they cleared our plates at the proper time and easily recommended wines or spirits to match dishes. Though there are tables outside, you should opt for one inside, by one of the towering glass windows for sunset or upstairs on the more intimate mezzanine. While thankfully nowhere near the gaudiness of a „theme” restaurant, you’ll notice that tiny accents have nautical inspiration, such as the napkins shaped like shellfish in holders made of shell to the candle holders and fish-shaped butter dish. I found the embroidered towels in the washroom a unique and classy touch.
As many of the dishes are more sophisticated and with prices to match, though more than competitive considering that even the salmon is flown in from Norway, Óceán would be perfect for special occasions or a refined business lunch or dinner. It would also probably be fine for families with well-behaved children. In terms of fresh seafood, even offering a freshness guarantee, Óceán bár & grill is the only real game in town.
Starters
Piri-Piri prawns Portuguese-style, in a creamy white wine sauce with chili and garlic
Wine: Lisicza Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Cote D’Azur bouillabaisse with shell fish, fish bites and fresh tomato
Wine: Gál Tibor Egri Pinot Blanc 2006 Eger
Mains
Grilled red sea bream fillet St. Barth style, with sautéed baby vegetables, lotus chips and a coconut sauce
Wine: Dufouleur-Pouilly Fuisse AOC 2003
Pan-fried duck breast with a balsamic vinegar sauce, mashed potatoes and marinated sundried tomatoes
Wine: Bock Ermitage 2004
Dessert
Chocolate delight served with a mango coulis and vanilla ice cream
Wine: Ebner Pinot Noir 2004
Orange Aspic with Porto Sabayon
Wine: Calem Port, 10-years
Spirits
Calvados Chateau du Breuill X.O.
Szicsek Premium Feketeribizli (Blackcurrant)
