I won’t lie, the Columbus Jazz Club is obviously a tourist spot, being a permanently moored ship on the Pest side bank of the Danube, directly opposite the Castle District. Get past that, though, and it’s a venue that hosts performances by respected local jazz acts and international guests, attracting discerning locals as well as weekend trippers after a view and some tunes.
A trip down the long, sloping jetty from the bank and into the ship’s interior reveals first a long bar then the entrance to a wooden clad, Irish-esque pub to the left. The rest of the ship’s dark wooden bowels are filled with tables flanked by broad windows letting in the striking view (of the river, castle and Chain Bridge illuminated at night) and topped by antique style copper lampshades. The seating area (refurbished near the end of last year) is fronted by the stage itself, where the jazz magic happens.
During our visit, the Indian-infused act of the night, Ektar Sextet, were sound checking as we ordered drinks. By the time our mains had arrived, they were in full swing and playing to a packed house; the atmosphere in there was great. Though ordering a meal at a jazz club may seem like an oddity, this particular one doubles as a restaurant on performance nights (Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays). There’s also Salsa every Friday (of the dancing rather than the culinary kind), during which, the restaurant’s closed. It’s still possible to order food in the adjoining pub, though.
And how did a floating jazz club fare when it came to cuisine? Well, the place looked and felt great – with something of the bustling bistro about it. And I couldn’t fault the service. It seems fair to say, though, that it’s a live music venue before a restaurant. That said, the food wasn’t bad, and actually included some pleasant surprises. The menu includes what you’d expect from a venue geared towards international guests, with a mainstay of Hungarian fare peppered with international influences, alongside wholly un-Hungarian dishes. Twists were added to many, leading to the likes of goose liver pate with ginger milk loaf (2,390 HUF), ossobuco served with paprika seasoned, sautéed potato noodles (2,490 HUF) and poached salmon seasoned with ginger atop apple risotto (2,750 HUF).
I went for the latter, which, though unusual, managed to work pretty well, with the apple well-softened by the large amount of wine that appeared to have been added. An accompanying salad would have been nice; but then, I could have ordered one from the menu. Our meal began, though, with a cheese soup with herbs and garlic roll slices (790 HUF). I’m not normally a fan, but, after stealing some from my dining companion, I was happy to find it without the inch-thick grated cheese at the bottom of the bowl restaurants here seem to go in for, nicely seasoned with garlic and not too thick. I chose grilled goat’s cheese and peppers on a bed of salad leaves (1,870 HUF). It was the firm, rectangular kind, rather than the moister round variety, but its dryer nature was offset by a nice balsamic glaze. Along with my salmon, we ordered chicken penne in a zucchini sauce (1,870 HUF), which was pleasingly al dente with unusual tones of rosemary. We followed both with my Hungarian dining partner’s favorite, Somlói Galuska (850 HUF) and one of mine, a crème brulée – of the unusual rhubarb variety (650 HUF). He was happy with his (huge) choice, and though adding fruit pieces to a crème brulée was perhaps unnecessary, it managed to work.
The question of whether I’d head in for the meal alone is an irrelevant one, as it’s not an option. For a sit down with friends to the sound of some great music and a stunning view, friendly service in an unusual location and a bustling atmosphere, it’s a sound choice – for a cozy winter’s night, or especially during warmer months when its two, spacious outdoor terraces are opened, offering unobstructed views of the iconic backdrop. It’s also the kind of place that would make a great wedding or function venue – perfect if you’re after a vessel without the sea-sickness!
Columbus Jazz Pub
1051 Budapest, Vigadó tér, dock 4. Tel.: +36.1.266.9013 www.columbuspub.hu
From the Menu
Soups and Starters
Cream of roasted potato soup with smoked duck breast (790 HUF)
Piadina filled with balsamic tenderloin pork and mozzarella cheese (2,210 HUF)
Main Courses:
Chicken breast with basil wrapped in ham served with balsamic rice with sun-dried tomatoes (2,790 HUF)
Breast of duckling with pears in red wine served with wild rice (3,450 HUF)
Dessert:
Chocolate brownie with madártej ice-cream (790 HUF)
Apple strudel with sour cream in a raisin sauce (850 HUF)
Entry fee: 800-1,600 HUF