{"id":440241,"date":"2023-01-28T21:32:42","date_gmt":"2023-01-28T20:32:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/funzine.hu\/?p=440241"},"modified":"2023-01-28T21:32:42","modified_gmt":"2023-01-28T20:32:42","slug":"montmartre-v-budimpesti-a-taban-je-izginil-sledil-boemski-cetrti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/funzine.hu\/sl\/2023\/01\/28\/potovanje\/montmartre-v-budimpesti-a-taban-je-izginil-sledil-boemski-cetrti\/","title":{"rendered":"Montmartre v Budimpe\u0161ti \u2013 A Tab\u00e1n je izginil, sledil boemski \u010detrti"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u010ce se dandanes sprehajamo po dolini, ki jo obkro\u017eajo V\u00e1rhegy, Gellert Hill in Naphegy, nas ve\u010dinoma pri\u010daka gri\u010devnat park, a ni bilo vedno tako. Pred 90 leti bi se potepali med majhnimi hi\u0161ami girbegurskih ulic gosto naseljenega dela mesta. Zdaj smo pogledali v nenavadno zgodovino te legendarne, danes izginule regije.<\/p>\n

\"\"
ilustracija – pixabay.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Prvi prebivalci Tab\u00e1na<\/p>\n

\u201cNe vem, ali je po turisti\u010dnem kodeksu primerno pokazati nekaj, \u010desar ni. Kajti po pravici vidite samo blatne travnike, kako utrujeno tleskajo ob vzno\u017eju Gell\u00e9rtovega gri\u010da. [\u2026] Neko\u010d so bile tukaj hi\u0161e, gospod, ampak kak\u0161ne hi\u0161e! in ulice so se vijugale med hi\u0161ami, a kak\u0161ne ulice! Hi\u0161e so bile enonadstropne in na sredini ob robidi je bil umivalnik. Njen sok je vabljivo kapljal po sredini ulice in kopal globoke kanale med nepravilnimi ma\u010djimi glavami\u201d – se spominja Antal Szerb a Tab\u00e1n.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Na prijetni legi s termalnimi vrelci in odli\u010dnimi vinogradi so \u017eiveli \u017ee v kameni dobi. Kasneje, v 13. stoletju, so se na tem obmo\u010dju naselili Srbi, po srednjem veku pa so strojarji in usnjarji, ki so se ukvarjali s predelavo usnja, naselili obmo\u010dje, ki se je sprva po tur\u0161ko imenovalo Tabakhane oziroma Usnjarska naselbina.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Medtem si je okro\u017eje z odli\u010dnimi vini in razvito usnjarsko industrijo pridobilo naklonjenost tudi Turkov in v \u010dasu njihovega 150-letnega bivanja so v Tab\u00e1nu zgradili ve\u010d mo\u0161ej in kopali\u0161\u010d – predhodnikov kopali\u0161\u010d Rudas in R\u00e1c.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Po izgonu zavojevalcev je v Budimu na\u0161lo dom \u0161e ve\u010d hi\u0161, tako da je v XVIII. do 19. stoletja je v dolini \u017eivela ve\u010dtiso\u010dglava srbska skupnost. Medtem niso naredili le Tab\u00e1na za trgovsko sredi\u0161\u010de, temve\u010d se je po njihovi zaslugi obnovil sloves budimskega vina in se raz\u0161iril dale\u010d naokoli.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tabana je zadela nesre\u010da<\/p>\n

Vsakdanjik pridelovalcev penin pa so ve\u010dkrat prekinila krizna obdobja. XVII\u2013XVIII. V 19. stoletju so se oku\u017ebe \u0161irile zaradi onesna\u017eene vode potoka, ki te\u010de skozi \u00d6rd\u00f6gov jarek: kuga in bubonska kuga sta terjali \u017eivljenja na tiso\u010de ljudi.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Obmo\u010dja poleg epidemij niso ob\u0161li niti po\u017eari. Po legendi je najve\u010djo tragedijo med njimi povzro\u010dil neprevidni sodarski vajenec leta 1810, ko je v vetrovnem in suhem dnevu zakuril na dvori\u0161\u010du ene od hi\u0161. Medtem ko je ve\u010dina stanovalcev delala v vinogradih, se je po\u017ear za\u010del \u0161iriti kot bi mignil. Tisti, ki so ostali doma, so medtem zaradi pomanjkanja vode zaman posku\u0161ali pogasiti plamene z vinom, skoraj petsto hi\u0161 je zgorelo do tal. V ujmi je \u017eivljenje izgubilo skoraj sto ljudi, po\u017ear pa je po ocenah uni\u010dil \u0161est milijonov forintov.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Leta 1875 je potok, ki je povzro\u010dil epidemije, povzro\u010dil \u0161e eno veliko uni\u010denje v Tab\u00e1nu, ko je zapustil svojo strugo in odna\u0161al hi\u0161e, tlakovane ulice, s pokopali\u0161\u010da pa naj bi odna\u0161al celo krste. Kon\u010dno je kot zadnji udarec XIX. Epidemija filoksere ob koncu 20. stoletja je uni\u010dila vinograde, zato je postalo vpra\u0161ljivo pre\u017eivetje Taba\u010danov, ki so se do tedaj pre\u017eivljali predvsem z vinom in grozdjem.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tola\u017eba po tolikih nesre\u010dah<\/p>\n

Na prelomu stoletja je Tab\u00e1n postal zaostal, obubo\u017ean del mesta, kjer je namesto vinogradov za\u010dela nastajati udobna \u010detrt, polna pivnic in restavracij. Takrat se je rodil budimpe\u0161tanski Montmartre, torej boemski, romanti\u010dni Taban.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u201cVsaka druga hi\u0161a je bila znana stara restavracija s sram glasbo. Tukaj, prosim, je bila globoka klet strica Poldija s petsto let starim kletnim obokom, kjer so tur\u0161ki gospodje neko\u010d vzdr\u017eevali rekreacijsko kmetijo na javne stro\u0161ke. Tukaj je bila ptica prepelica na steni, poleg pisave Imreja Vahota in opojnega, posve\u010denega spomina Gyule Kr\u00fadyja. […] ljudje so vedno videli lesk na novo za\u010detih ljubezni po njenih strmih ulicah, […] Tu so bile neko\u010d ulice, Gospod, tu je bila mladost\u201d – pi\u0161e Antal Szerb v svojem delu Budapesti vodnik za Marsovce.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Trg Szarvas, Feh\u00e9r sas utca levo, Vend\u00e9gl\u0151 in G\u00f6r\u00f6g utca nasproti M\u00e9lypince, Vir\u00e1g Benedek utca desno. V ozadju je srbska cerkev svetega Dimitrija. Foto: Fortepan\/J\u00e1nos S\u00fct\u0151<\/p>\n

M\u00e9lypinc\u00e9 strica Poldija je bil najcenej\u0161i lokal od vseh, kjer je lastnik sam stregel hrano in pija\u010do pisateljem in umetnikom, ki so radi jedli pri njem – vklju\u010dno s Kr\u00fadyjem, ki je imel stalno mizo – in lokalnim prebivalcem.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kasneje so v Kakuku, ki se je preselil na Kereszt utca in kasneje Attila k\u00f6r\u00fat, obiskovalce, med katerimi so se ustavljali diplomati, svetovno znane zvezde, vladarji v inkognitu in vojskovodje, pri\u010dakali mad\u017earski okusi in glasba Budai Gyurka.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Als\u00f3 Avar je bil gnezdo zaljubljencev, kjer so gostujo\u010dim gospodom svetovali o zmenkih, medtem ko je Fels\u0151 Avar, znan po ribji juhi, slu\u017eil kot prizori\u0161\u010de dru\u017einskih sre\u010danj.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

A morda najbolj znana gostilna v Budimu je bila Feh\u00e9r Kreszt, v kateri je po legendi bival Casanova, ki je leta 1782 pobegnil iz bene\u0161kega zapora in, zvest svojemu imenu, zapeljal lastnikovo h\u010der. Verjetno nobena beseda od tega ni resni\u010dna, vendar je od takrat ena najbolj znanih Tab\u00e1novih legend.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dana\u0161nji obraz uni\u010denega Tab\u00e1na in okro\u017eja<\/p>\n

Najprej se je leta 1898 z izgradnjo mostu Erzs\u00e9bet za\u010delo ru\u0161enje hi\u0161 in ulic, ki se nahajajo na ju\u017enem koncu okro\u017eja, naslonjenega na hrib Gell\u00e9rt.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pogled iz smeri Als\u00f3hegy utca proti Erzs\u00e9bet h\u00edd, naprej se vidi stolp najemni\u0161ke pala\u010de Geist na D\u00f6brentei t\u00e9r. Slika: podjetje Fortepan\/M\u00f3r Erd\u00e9lyi Mad\u017earskega geografskega muzeja<\/p>\n

In medtem ko se je v preteklih letih veliko ljudi zabavalo v Tab\u00e1novih jamah po\u017eelenja in restavracijah, si mestni voditelji niso oddahnili, ker natrpan Tab\u00e1n, brez kanalizacije in javnih slu\u017eb, ne sodi v njihovo vizijo prihodnosti. Posledi\u010dno so se maja 1933 za\u010dela popolna ru\u0161itvena dela, zaradi \u010desar so hi\u0161e Tab\u00e1n zdaj ve\u010dinoma zasedene z javnim parkom. Nobeden od tu prvotno predvidenih bulvarjev, medicinskega hotela, sodobnih poslovnih stavb in enodru\u017einskega stanovanjskega naselja torej ni za\u017eivel.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Danes so ko\u0161\u010dki starega dela mesta vidni le \u0161e ponekod v novi mestni krajini. Na izhodu z Elizabetinega mostu, na primer, zvonik ozna\u010duje lokacijo srbske katedrale, ki je tam neko\u010d stala.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Eden od preostalih otokov starega Tab\u00e1na: Vir\u00e1g Benedek H\u00e1z<\/p>\n

Hi\u0161a Vir\u00e1g Benedek, ki je bila zgrajena leta 1811 po velikem po\u017earu v Tab\u00e1nu, spominja na vzdu\u0161je starega Tab\u00e1na. Za\u0161\u010diteni kompleks stavb, poimenovan po pavlinskem menihu, pisatelju in pesniku, danes blesti kot eden od posebnih otokov nekdanjega dela mesta.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Z obokanimi pritli\u010dnimi dvoranami XIX. z nizom poslikanih prostorov v nadstropju iz 19. stoletja in romanti\u010dnim stoletnim orehom na notranjem dvori\u0161\u010du o\u010dara obiskovalce, ki lahko izbirajo med \u0161tevilnimi programi. Ker hi\u0161a trenutno deluje kot kulturna arena, kar pomeni, da poleg dru\u017einskih in otro\u0161kih programov tiste, ki se \u017eelijo sprostiti, sprejmejo z razstavami, koncerti, obrtnimi izdelki, skupnostnimi programi, literarnimi ve\u010deri, bol\u0161jimi sejmi, poletnimi tabori in vrtnim kinom.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u010ce se dandanes sprehajamo po dolini, ki jo obkro\u017eajo V\u00e1rhegy, Gellert Hill in Naphegy, nas ve\u010dinoma<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":391,"featured_media":440242,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[14345,14343],"tags":[],"post_places":[],"class_list":["post-440241","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-potovanje","category-uncategorized-sl"],"acf":{"connected_places":null,"del_image":""},"yoast_head":"\nMontmartre v Budimpe\u0161ti \u2013 A Tab\u00e1n je izginil, sledil boemski \u010detrti<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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