Vitéz Kürtős has been baking kürtőskalács the traditional way for the longest time in the city—on a rotating spit over a charcoal grill—which gives it that unbeatable, authentic flavour. Their motto at their cozy confectionery, Édes Mackó, says it all: “original is cool.”

Tucked right next to the Budapest Zoo in City Park, Édes Mackó is the perfect place to treat yourself. Whether you’re out for a walk, exploring the park, or spending the day with family, grabbing a freshly made chimney cake is a must. The sweet smell alone will pull you in!

While they honour the traditional recipes, Vitéz Kürtős also gets creative. You’ll find a bunch of fun toppings and flavour combos—think cinnamon, walnut, cocoa, or even filled versions with creamy surprises inside. Plus, they offer gluten-free and sometimes even vegan options, so everyone can find something to love.

You’ll spot them at lots of food festivals and markets, but if you’re heading to Lake Balaton this summer, don’t miss their spot in Tihany. Same amazing chimney cakes, just with a lakeside view!

Édes Mackó
1146 Budapest, Állatkerti krt. 14-16.
Vitéz Kürtős Tihany
8237 Tihany, Halász köz 9., Pisky sétány
Website

Try More Enchanting Gastro Spots:

Gastro Highlights - 7+1 Tasty Adventures in Budapest

Whether you are in the mood for a sweet sip of bubble tea, a juicy burger or a cold craft beer with a stunning view, this city has you covered.

Funzine

We, Hungarians have all heard stereotypes about our cuisine before, most of which are related to our “too generous” use of onion and garlic. As opposed to this unfortunate popular belief, our gastronomy is not a one-trick pony that can only operate on these two bulbous vegetables. Different types of meat, fresh vegetables, fruits, white bread, dairy products and honey are all inevitable parts of the Hungarian kitchen: we have countless veggie and fruit soups, creamy vegetable meals, hot pasta dishes (túrós csusza aka square pasta with curd cheese, sour cream and bacon crumbles is a must-try), and flavourful sauces and meat specialties made from poultry, beef, lamb, pork, fish and wild game.

Considering the wide array of spices that we use, it is technically impossible to have a dull cuisine. Just to mention a few: we add bay leaf (which has a flavour arsenal of more than 50 compounds) to potato sauce, bean and tomato soups and use cumin for cabbage dishes, sausages, sauces and baked pork meals. Tarragon is also our friend, perfect for seasoning poultry, wild game meat, salads, green bean and many more. Parsley is another ingredient that can’t be missing from any Hungarian household; it gives freshness to the chicken soup, and adds a special twist to sides like baked potato and Hungarian hash browns. Of course paprika (grind and fresh) is the apple of our eye, but it is not as dominant in our culinary palette as assumed. It is true though that the dishes we are most proud of, such as paprika chicken, stuffed cabbage, fisherman’s soup and goulash, happen to have this ingredient.

Modern Hungarian Cuisine

Just like most things in life, Hungarian gastronomy also had its ups and downs in the past. The ambassador of contemporary Hungarian cuisine and owner of Andrássy Food & Wine Miklós Forrai shared his thoughts with us not long ago in an interview saying:

“People around the world know that Hungarian gastronomy was very good in the past, and by saying this I refer to years before the turn of the century. If I could, I’d rather erase the 40 years prior to the regime change. Now people are open-minded and curious about what stage the Hungarian gastronomy is at right now. I must say, we are headed to the right direction.”

With that being said, the biggest milestone of the last decade was when Costes became the country’s first Michelin-star restaurant in 2010. It brought with itself a wave of development influencing the whole fine-dining culture of the country as well as bistro kitchen and the local gastronomy in general. At the moment, Hungary has 6 Michelin-star restaurants: Costes, Onyx, Borkonyha, Costes Downtown, Stand and Babel.

Must-have Hungarian meals:

• Hungarian stuffed crepe
• Paprika chicken
• Fisherman’s soup
• Beef goulash
• Square pasta with curd cheese
• Beef vadas
• Jókai-style bean soup
• Somlói sponge cake
• Cottage cheese dumpling
• Gundel crepe
• Rákóczi’s cake

Find recipes and a list of recommended restaurants here!

Ingredients (for 4)

2 tbsp. goose grease, 3 medium-sized onions, 4 cloves of garlic, 400 g beef shank, 2 carrots, 2 parnships, 1 middle-sized celeriac, 2 middle-sized tomatoes, 2 bell peppers, 2 middle-sized potatoes, 2 litres of water, 1 coffee-spoon caraway, fresh rosemary, 2 bayleaves, 1 tbsp. red ground paprika, 1 coffee-spoon coloured peppercorns, 1 tbsp. salt, 1 celery stalk, fresh parsley leaves, 2 pcs of hot paprika (optional), a few slices of white bread, 3 dl sour scream (serving)

In a 4-litre cauldron (or pot), melt grease and add diced onion. Cook until translucent. Chop the beef shank into 3×3 cm cubes and mix with the onion. Don’t season it with salt yet! Stir-fry the meat until a thin coat appears on their surface. Sprinkle with ground red paprika and add thin slices of garlic. Pour water into the dish and stir it every five minute or so. Now add all the spices left (other than the salt). Stir it well, and bring it to a boil.

Add the tomato and the bell peppers (unsliced). Cook for 2 hours (after bringing to a boil) while stirring every 5 minute or so. Then add the cleaned vegetables sliced in thick rounds as well as the chopped potatoes. Season with salt, and wait another 30 minutes until the veggies are cooked. Before serving, take out the tender paprika and tomato. Cut the celery stalk into small pieces, chop the parsley and add them to the goulash. Serve the soup hot with fresh white bread, slices of hot paprika (optional), and sour cream.

Wine: Eger’s red wine, Bull’s Blood

Ingredients

400 g beef shank, 200 g potato, 1 l stock, onion, garlic, caraway seed, black peppercorn, bay leaf, paprika powder, 2 tomatoes, 1 bigger bell pepper, 1 tbsp. pig fat, salt

Noodles (50 g)

1 kg flour, 2 eggs, 15 egg yolks, 0.5 dl oil, 0.5 dl water

Directions

Clean the unboned beef shank, dice it. Chop the onions and the garlic, add the sliced paprika and fry them together. Remove from the heat, add the paprika powder and the peeled, chopped tomatoes. Roast meat on pig fat, and slowly pour half of the stock over it when it is back on the stove. Season it with salt, pepper corns, and bay leaf. Cook the meat until tender, then add the rest of the stock and the diced potatoes. Cook until done. Serve with homemade “csipetke” pinched noodles. It’s easy: add all the ingredients together, mix them until homogeneous. Form tiny balls by pinching. Let them dry. Finally, cook the noodles in salty water and pour it off when done.

Wine Advisor

Thanks to its deep, spicy aromas and mild acidity, Kadarka wine’s character complements this dish very well.

The Best Goulash Soup Restaurants in Budapest

There’s no doubt about it: goulash, the meal of the cowboys of the Great Hungarian Plain is the most well-known culinary creation of Hungary. However, what the world calls goulash is radically different from what it really is (hint: it’s not a stew), which results in a lot of surprised faces when the thick, nourishing soup arrives to the unsuspecting guests’ table. In case you want to be the next person to be surprised by this timeless classic, visit one (or more) of the below spots.

21 Hungarian Restaurant

The number 21 has a double meaning: on one hand, it’s the house number of the restaurant, on the other, it reflects upon the founders’ wish to introduce guests to the wonders of 21st century Hungarian cuisine. Despite being located on an ancient street of Buda Castle, 21 is one-hundred percent a product of modern times: the kitchen of Chef Szabolcs Vígh serves classic dishes according to modern-day standards, made of ingredients procured from local producers, and accompanied by only Hungarian wines. 21’s hearty goulash soup comes with pinched noodles, while other delicious fares worthy of savouring include Tokaj wine infused foie gras paté, veal stew, and baked cheesecake.

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.

Kéhli Restaurant

At the foot of Óbuda’s huge housing project, right next to Árpád bridge, there lies a small architectural remnant of the 19th century, a time when Jews, Hungarians and Swabians lived side by side in the neighbourhood. It is here where Kéhli, one of the best Hungarian-style restaurants of the city resides, right next door to the home of the late bohemian writer Gyula Krúdy, whose love for Hungarian wine was only surpassed by his love for Hungarian food. At Kéhli, you’ll find plenty of both. The menu includes all the classic dishes of the past couple of centuries of Hungarian cuisine, from beef goulash served in a cute hot-pot and frog legs fried in breadcrumbs to lamb stew and the full gamut of iconic Hungarian desserts, from Gundel pancakes to Somlói sponge cake. The turn-of-the-century ambience is made complete with live gypsy music every day from 8 PM.

1036 Budapest, Mókus u. 22.

Gettó Gulyás

With a name like this, is it any wonder that Gettó Gulyás made it on our list? Found on one of the main streets of Budapest’s Jewish District, the homely, unrestrained restaurant offers an unpretentious selection of classic Hungarian dishes, with a menu focusing on the heartier, meaty side of Magyar cooking. Besides the eponymous goulash soup prepared with a lot of vegetables and Hungarian pinched noodles called csipetke, you’ll find a colourful variety of pörkölt (stews) here, with veal, chicken, rooster testicles, beef, deer, catfish, beans and mushrooms as the main components. The stews are usually served with nokedli (a kind of dumplings) and the pickles of your choice. In case you want to end your meal on a sweeter note, ask for Gettó Gulyás’ cottage cheese dumplings, coated in cinnamon-flavoured bread crumbs – it’s more than phenomenal.

1077 Budapest, Wesselényi utca 18.

Ramazuri Bistronomy

Opened in 2017, this one is for the more well-off gastro-tourists. Situated in the historic environment of the Buda Castle, with the backdrop of Matthias Church and the good-luck statue of András Hadik, Ramazuri offers guests a toned-down contemporary ambience. The tight-lipped menu draws inspiration from the hottest trends in gastronomy, the most exquisite international flavours, and the most beloved Hungarian classics, ranging from goulash soup to zander fillet, chicken paprikash, and lamb with Hokkaido pumpkin, Savoy cabbage, and plum. In case you’d rather get fed with something other than the venerable buildings of the famous neighbourhood, Castle District’s Ramazuri will make sure that your wish will be granted!

1014 Budapest, Úri utca 30.

Stand25

Run by Bocuse d’Or European champion Tamás Széll and chef Szabina Szulló, two outstanding gurus of gastronomy, Stand25 Bisztró is located inside the Downtown Market Hall, as Budapest’s answer to Lisbon’s TimeOut Market. Opened in 2017, the Széll-Szulló dream team presents all the classic dishes of Hungarian cuisine in their full, fatty, flavourful glory, from goulash soup to layered potato casserole and Mangalitsa cheek stew, all made from locally sourced, fresh-to-the-kitchen-table ingredients. The flavours are so compelling that in 2018 Stand25 was awarded with the Michelin Bib Gourmand title, which means it offers a good value for money experience. Hungarian wines, craft beers, sparkling wine, and coffee specialties are also available under kiosk 25.

1054 Budapest, Hold utca 13.

Tama

The Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út restaurant is one of the lesser-known gems of downtown Budapest’s fine-dining scene.Tama was opened in 2016, and has slowly become a flagship of Hungarian new wave gastronomy, thanks to the arduous work and pioneering talent of chef János Erdei. Dishes served at Tama reflect the cosmopolitan interior design of the two-storey venue: they combine taste and tradition with an artistic sensitivity to current trends, resulting in a unique and colourful experience. From a marvellous goulash soup with spätzli, to hunter’s stew with rabbit and duck liver terrine with apple and Tokaji Aszú wine, here you can savour modern Hungarian cuisine at its absolute best.

1051 Budapest, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 22.

Terv Presszó

Nested in downtown Budapest, located just a stone’s throw away from St. Stephen’s Basilica, one of the must-visit gastronomic spots of the Hungarian capital has been around for quite a while now. The history of this much acclaimed venue draws backs to the gloomy days of mid-century Hungary: it was first opened in 1954, then soon became one of the favourite hangouts of local artists and writers. Nowadays, the charming joint keeps dazzling its guests with authentic Hungarian flavours you simply can’t miss out on. Visit Terv Presszó to taste their amazing goulash soup, served in a cauldron with melt-in-your-mouth beef and dumplings, and enjoy each and every spoonful of the scrumptious dish while admiring the retro feeling that envelopes every square inch of the venue.

1051 Budapest, Nádor utca 19.

Budapest Barbecue Company

If you’re looking for meat lovers’ heaven on Earth, this is it. Budapest Barbecue Company has been serving fans of smoked and juicy animal bits since 2016, offering guests a classic American-style BBQ experience made possible by a gigantic Southern Pride smoker, and the owners’ own roadside impressions from Mississippi, Louisiana and Texas. Now, you might ask “why the hell is there a BBQ place listed among the city’s best goulash restaurants?” The answer is three words: BBC beef goulash. Their thick and rich soup is prepared with smoky beef and fresh vegetables, giving the Hungarian staple dish a slight taste of the flavourful cuisine of the American Deep South.

1055 Budapest, Szent István körút 13.

ZONA

Located only a few steps away from the Chain Bridge, the Castle Funicular, and Várkert Bazaar, stylish ZONA awaits guests with a modern bistro kitchen, unique food pairings, and hundreds of the finest Hungarian and international wines to match them with. Led by Chef Levente Kovács, ZONA puts a huge emphasis on seasonal ingredients, and so the menu changes every couple of months: what’s constant is the high quality and the surprising flavours of the featured dishes. Must-try ZONA specialties include beetroot risotto with octopus and parsley, Mangalitsa goulash with bacon chips, the hedonistic beef burger, and the paleo mango brownie.

1013 Budapest, Lánchíd utca 7.

Csiga Café

Located on the corner of Rákóczi tér, Csiga Café is one of the most treasured venues of District VIII: the interior is characterized by wooden surfaces, snail-shapes made of wrought iron, a lot of paintings hanging from the wall, and a pleasing abundance of plants. Famous for its delicious and filling breakfast options, which include Croque Madame and American pancake with maple syrup, artistic Csiga Café also boasts an extraordinary rum selection, a friendly staff, and a kitchen serving an assorted mix of Hungarian and international dishes. Whether you’re hungry for traditional Hungarian beef goulash, a Pastrami sandwich with brisket, Moroccan spicy chicken tagine with couscous, or an otherworldly apple cake, you can sate all your cravings at Csiga Café.

1084 Budapest, Vásár utca 2.

Kiadó Kocsma

One of the most popular underground pubs of the Terézváros neighbourhood, Kiadó Kocsma is situated a stone’s throw away from busy Oktogon, and is usually just as crowded as the aforementioned square (needless to say, if you’re smart, you make a reservation, or else you can play the waiting game). This tiny locale is a favourite amongst the hipster herd of Budapest, but families with young children are not a rare sight either. In addition to supplying guests with a seemingly endless flow of alcohol, Kiadó boasts a neatly put-together collection of Hungarian and international flavours, ranging from wholesome goulash soup, mouth-watering burgers, and hummus through to solid steaks, beef stew with red wine, and penne arrabiata.

1061 Budapest, Jókai tér 3.

Ingredients (for 10 people)

Sponge cake: 12 eggs, 240 g flour, 240 g sugar, 4 g baking powder, 20 g cocoa powder, 20 g ground walnut – chocolate sauce: 3 dl water, 80 g cocoa powder, 1 pinch of salt, 5 cl oil, 30 g sugar -vanilla cream: 1 l milk, 5 eggs, 15 g sugar, 80 g vanilla custard-powder, 1 vanilla bean – sugar syrup: 30 g sugar, 5 cl rum, 100 g raisin – 1 l whipped cream

Directions

Bake three types of sponge cakes. First, divide the eggs, portion them into three bowls equally. Add 80-80 g sugar to the yolks, and mix them together until smooth with an electric mixer. Do the same with egg whites and a pinch of salt until stiff, also in 3 portions. Carefully mix the whisked whites and the yolks, and whilst constantly stirring, add 1/3 of the baking powder and 80 g flour. Ground walnut goes into sponge cake number 2, and cocoa powder into the third (please note that you need half a spoon less of flour this time). Preheat the oven to 160 degrees, and bake each sponge cake for 8 minutes. Use the toothpick test to see if they are done.

For the sugar syrup, bring a bowl of water (with sugar and raisin) to boil. Add rum at the end, then cool it down. Now mix the ingredients of the chocolate sauce, and cook until it reaches the right consistency. Continue with the vanilla cream: heat milk (it calls for a slow simmer), add half of the sugar and the vanilla bean (cut open) after boiling. When ready, mix it with custard-powder and get it off the stove. Whisk the other half of the sugar with the egg yolks carefully, add it to the milk under constant stirring. Finally, add the beaten egg whites to the cream.

Well done! Now it’s time for layering your sponge cake: white sponge cake, 1/3 sugar syrup with raisin, cocoa sponge cake, sugar syrup, 1/3 vanilla cream, walnut sponge cake, sugar syrup, and the rest of the cream on top. Garnish: cocoa powder and walnut pieces. Leave it to rest in the fridge for a few hours before serving with chocolate sauce and whipped cream.

Wine Advisor:

Your palate will be overcome with the flavours of Cabernet Franc from Szekszárd which really shines when paired with the Somlói sponge cake.

The City’s Best Somlói Sponge Cake Restaurants

One of the most decadent desserts you can imagine, Hungary’s classic Somlói sponge cake is lighter than it looks, which makes it the perfect choice to add a delicious finish to your meals. If you want to give this sweet treat a taste, try one of the following 11 Budapest locations which offer the best Somlói sponge cakes in town.

Pörc & Prézli

Found within a two-minute distance from the Opera House, overlooking the dome of St. Stephen’s Basilica, Pörc & Prézli is a modern Hungarian trattoria where the focus is on all things meat, greaves, and breadcrumbs. Led by Chef István Kristóf, Pörc & Prézli’s kitchen pays special attention to the ingredients used, procuring them from small producers. Instead of reinventing every other classic Hungarian dish, they simply make sure to use the finest available ingredients on the market, and prepare the meals following well-established recipes. Their huge portions, including their creamy chicken paprikash (served with buttered noodles and sour cream), are accompanied by live music in the second half of the week, as well as a flavourful list of craft beers from Szent András Brewery. To help make your culinary experience complete, try Pörc & Prézli’s toothsome Somlói sponge cake.

1065 Budapest, Lázár utca 1.

Gerbeaud

The name Gerbeaud is synonymous with the golden age of Budapest and high-quality, classic coffee house experience. The Vörösmarty tér venue has been operating as a confectionery since 1858, and took up the name of Émile Gerbeaud, its new owner from 1884, who turned the coffee-and-cake house into one of Europe’s most renowned cafés. With an interior characterized by the use of gold, marble, and wood, Gerbeaud provides guests with a luxurious backdrop, while they are enjoying the legendary confectionery’s classic creations, from the popular Gerbeaud cake to the decadent Somlói sponge cake, made with raisins steeped in Tokaj Aszú, Valrhona chocolate sauce, whipped cream, and walnut linzer crisps.

1051 Budapest, Vörösmarty tér 7-8.

MészárSteak Kitchen

Butcher’s shop-turned-steak heaven, MészárSteak Kitchen centers around meaty treats and Hungarian flavours. Located in the heart of the city, here you’ll find friendly prices, dishes made from superb ingredients, and a laid-back bistro environment perfectly suitable for a romantic date or a casual business lunch. Besides the various cuts of beef, MészárSteak Kitchen offers a range of á la carte items, including meat-stuffed pancakes, green pea cream soup, salads, sweet chili and lime pullet breast, vegetarian burger, and Somlói sponge cake trifle. The menu is of course accompanied by a selection of Hungary’s finest wines.

1053 Budapest, Károlyi utca 11.

Macesz Bistro

With the eponymous food item in its name, where else would you find Macesz Bistro than in the heart of Pest’s Jewish District? Situated within walking distance from the world-famous Szimpla and the equally renowned Great Synagogue (Dohány utca), Macesz Bistro is balancing on the line between old and new, serving a palatable mixture of Jewish and Hungarian dishes, as well as a decent wine selection. Since goose is the most prominent meat in Jewish cooking, you’ll find plenty of dishes centered around the waterfowl, including foie gras paté with pear and thyme, stuffed goose neck with pearl barley, and boiled millet with goose giblets. Those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed either: their Somlói sponge cake is one of the best in town.

1072 Budapest, Dob utca 26.

Búsuló Juhász Restaurant

Topping Gellért Hill ever since its foundation in 1937, Búsuló Juhász Restaurant was once the home of blaring gypsy music and the city’s first late night bar. After a complete overhaul in 2010, the restaurant was reinvented as a citadel of 21th century gastronomy, its concise, seasonal menu featuring classic Hungarian dishes (goulash soup from the Great Hungarian Plains, breaded Mangalica pork chop, and Somlói sponge cake) as well as a few surprising items: take, for example, the vitello tonnato (a starter from Piedmont) with bonito flakes (dried, fermented, and smoked Japanese fish), or the venison with pumpkin-poppy seed sponge cake and pumpkin spaghetti. A killer panoramic view, delicious flavours, and a friendly and swift service – what’s not to like?

1118 Budapest, Kelenhegyi út 58.

Kert Bistro

One of Pest’s most popular garden restaurants, Kert Bistro awaits you on Thököly út with hundred-year old trees providing soothing shade during the summer months, interiors furnished with rustic tables and chairs, and an abundance of flowers in the winter season. The family-friendly venue prides itself on its award-winning Italian artisanal coffee specialties, inexpensive lunch deals and exciting menu, full of fresh and seasonal offers, presented in a like-magnet manner. Whether you go for the melt-in-your-mouth beef tenderloin tartare, the scrumptious Thai soup with coconut milk and prawns, the divine beef cheek with pork wine, or the light Somlói sponge cake, you’ll leave a happy person.

1146 Budapest, Thököly út 57.

Csalánosi Csárda

Csalánosi Csárda is located north of Árpád bridge, just a couple of minutes from the Szentlélek tér stop of the H5 suburban train. Surrounded by the late Baroque buildings of Óbuda’s main square, it is a treasured remnant of Óbuda’s small-town past, when instead of huge housing projects, hundreds of small pubs, taverns and restaurants dotted the landscape. If the weather allows it, you can consume your old-time dishes (including hearty catfish stew, tripe, goulash, and a Somlói sponge cake served with vanilla ice cream and tiramisu) in the charming csárda’s garden, and if it doesn’t, you’re welcome to take a seat inside the restaurant’s ancient cellar (used for storing wine barrels in the olden days), and enjoy the live music.

1033 Budapest, Hídfő utca 16.

Centrál Kávéház

Established in 1887, Centrál Kávéház is one of the few survivors of the late 19th century coffee house boom in Budapest – and it’s as beautiful as ever, complete with antique furniture and a lot of wooden surfaces. The downtown venue is situated on the corner of Károlyi and Irányi utca, hidden in plain sight thanks to the shades provided by the surrounding buildings. The historic café’s kitchen puts Hungarian cuisine in the spotlight, with equal amounts of respect for tradition and openness to new ideas present in their dishes. Aside from delicious pick-me-ups and hearty meals, the menu of Centrál Kávéház also features scrumptious desserts, such as the Somlói sponge cake and the coconut panna cotta with passion fruit and pineapple.

1053 Budapest, Károlyi utca 9.

Dunacorso Restaurant

Run by the same family for over 40 years now, Dunacorso Restaurant is located in a historic environment. The river bank venue is not only a next-door neighbour to the Romantic-style Vigadó but is also a first-rate spot if you want to admire the royal beauty of Buda Castle while gorging on reformed flavours. Famous for its professional service, the meals prepared in the kitchen of Dunacorso range from cold foie gras with red onion jam and homemade French brioche to roasted sturgeon and creamy spinach with dried tomato cream and porcini mushroom. To end your repast on a sweet note, order one of Dunacorso’s locally made dessert specialties, like the hedonistic Somlói sponge cake.

1051 Budapest, Vigadó tér 3.

Rozmaring Kertvendéglő

Easily reachable from the inner city by the H5 suburban train, Rozmaring is a riverside restaurant and event venue with a prime view to Margaret Island, a wine cellar, no-fuss dishes, filling portions, and a tennis court. The spacious restaurant offers a nice mixture of authentic Hungarian and international fares, making sure that you’ll spend a good amount of time deciding what to order. To make your life easier, we recommend that you begin your meal with a rich Óbuda-style meat pot, continue on with roasted goose liver slices served with roasted apple and cranberries, and then top it off with a gorgeous platter of Somlói sponge cake.

1036 Budapest, Árpád fejedelem útja 125.

Károlyi Restaurant

Housed in the same late-17th century building as the Petőfi Literature Museum, Károlyi Restaurant is the perfect place for a relaxing adventure in the rich lands of Magyar cooking. Opened in 2002, the venue was born with the aim of offering dishes that reflect the spirit of traditional Hungarian flavours and the history of its prestigious home (once functioning as Hungary’s most prominent literary salon). The result is a menu that’s mainly comprised of seasonal dishes, including a number of gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, and sugar-free options. If you don’t have any dietary preferences, we recommend that you start off your meal with beef bouillon (served with semolina dumplings and horseradish), then move on to veal goulash in potato pancake as your main, and finish up with a Somlói sponge cake as your final course.

1053 Budapest, Károlyi utca 16.

Ingredients (4 people)

Stew: 800 gr veal (calf), 100 gr goose grease, 5 dl sour cream, 20 gr flour, 200 gr onion, 150 gr green, paprika, 150 gr tomato, 20 gr ground red pepper, 10 gr salt

8 thick crepes: 3 dl milk, 1 dl soda water, 400 gr flour, 4 eggs, 2 tbsp. oil, 3 pinches of salt

Directions

Cook veal and sliced vegetables together to make a flavourful stew.* When the meat is almost tender, get it out of the bowl, break it up into small pieces, and fry until browned. Then add half of the stew, 1-2 spoons of sour cream, and simmer until tender. While the meat is getting ready, make crepes. Mix milk, soda water, eggs and salt, slowly whisk it with flour and oil until reaching the right, clean-bred consistency. Cover it, and let is set for around 30 minutes. After that, heat a large non-stick skillet over medium low heat, brush it with a little oil, and coat with a thin circle of batter. Cook both sides until they turn golden and you’ll get 8 thicker crepes. Keep them warm.

Now place a thick layer of drained meat on top of each crepes, and fold them carefully. Use a fireproof pot and put them in the oven. In the meantime use the other half of the stew, add sour cream and flour, bring to a boil, and drain the creamy mixture well. This paprika sauce should be used after serving, poured on top of each crepe. Serve it warm, with sour cream. Yummy!

*Cube the meat, sear it in a warm pot over grease. When brown crust appears, transfer the meat out of the pan. Put the sliced veggies (onion first, then green paprika and tomato) into a bowl, soften them together for around 8-10 minutes. Season with salt. Sprinkle some flour over the vegetable mix, then return the meat and add the broth.

Wine Advice

Wood barrel-aged, ruby red, dry Eger wine – including Egri Bikavér- compliments a hearty meat dish very well.

The City’s Best Hungarian Stuffed Crepe Restaurants

A typical Hungarian meal has to include Hortobágy-style stuffed crepes at some point, so if you’re into the flavours of the Magyar cuisine, let us show you how Budapest pays tribute to the Hungarian salty pancake.

Gettó Gulyás

If you long for a genuinely Hungarian dining experience, say no more, just head to Wesselényi utca’s Gettó Gulyás where you’ll find everything a typical Hungarian meal consists of. After satisfying your hunger for Hortobágy-style crepe (special note: in Gettó Gulyás a vegetarian version with mushroom is also available), you can choose from a wide range of stews, let it be chicken paprikash, beef stew, lentil stew or catfish stew. Complete the dish with pickles like native Hungarians would do; our favourites are pickled cucumber and beetroot with horseradish. Not only will this rich meal smell like heaven, but it will surely sate your appetite for the rest of the day.

1077 Budapest, Wesselényi utca 18.

Korhely

Korhely, which roughly translates to drunkard in English, has a special place in our hearts: its owner is popular Hungarian radio presenter Ferenc Rákóczi who wanted to establish a place where he can give people what he got from his mother: the harmony of care, love, and attention through home-cooked meals. On weekdays from 12 PM to 3 PM Korhely offers a weekly menu of 2 kinds of soups, 5 types of main courses, and 2 dessert options, but the á la carte menu is available all day, including Hortobágy-style meat crepe made with rooster stew, rosé duck breast with cold lavender-strawberry ragout and grilled vegetables, roasted pork knuckle with sour cabbage and boiled potatoes, and grandmother-style poppy seed cake with apricot jam.

1061 Budapest, Liszt Ferenc tér 7.

Pörc & Prézli

Found within a two-minute distance from the Hungarian Opera House, in a small side street leading off Bajcsy Zsilinszky út, Pörc & Prézli concentrates on all things meat as well as bacon bits and breadcrumbs, as its name suggests. Led by chef István Kristóf, the restaurant doesn’t intend to reinvent the classic Hungarian dishes, it rather ensures that they are prepared with care, using the finest available ingredients on the market. A great example of Pörc & Prézli’s excellence is its Hortobágy-style stuffed crepe that is cooked and served as written in the original 1930 recipe. Every day the abundant meals are accompanied by live music in the evening, while on weekends the mellow tunes are played also at noon; for more info, visit Pörc & Prézli’s website!

1065 Budapest, Lázár utca 1.

Két Szerecsen Bistro

Just a stone’s throw away from Korhely, on Nagymező utca you’ll find the popular meeting point of Két Szerecsen (Two Saracens) Bistro. Its international cuisine merges simplicity with intricacy, modernism with traditions, and the flavours of the Parisian bistros with up-to-date gastro tendencies, which provide us with one of a kind dishes, such as honey and chilli pork chops with celery mashed potatoes and veal onglet with asparagus bean, spiced butter, and baked potatoes. Don’t forget to choose from Két Szerecsen’s wide selection of wines that includes both Hungarian and foreign delicacies as well as sparkling wine.

1065 Budapest, Nagymező utca 14.

Náncsi Néni Vendéglője

Away from the hustle and bustle of Budapest, Náncsi Néni Vendéglője (Aunt Náncsi’s Restaurant) is located in the tranquil environment of Hűvöshegy, easily accessible by tram 56, 56A, and 61 as well as the Children’s Railway that crosses the emerald green forest all the way from Széchenyihegy. Run by the Schädler family, the restaurant boasts a homely interior design with its red and white checkered table covers and grandmother-style dinner service. Apart from the Hungarian stuffed crepe that is made with chicken at aunt Náncsi’s, we highly recommend you to taste the Sunday chicken broth, catfish stew with cottage cheese pasta, and túrógombóc, the sweet cottage cheese dumplings.

1029 Budapest, Ördögárok utca 80.

Aszú

As its name suggests, at downtown’s Aszú Restaurant everything revolves around the pride of Tokaj, Hungary’s most treasured wine region. The ornate, vaulted interior, complete with a mirrored wall and handcrafted wooden carvings, provides guests with a striking backdrop for their culinary exploits, but in summer Aszú’s spacious terrace is also a great choice. The restaurant’s cooking puts the emphasis on beloved Hungarian dishes, updated in accordance with 21th century tastes. From chicken paprikash and Hortobágy-style stuffed crepe with sour cream mousse to goose liver cream with aszú jelly and grape salad, Aszú Restaurant pampers our taste buds with a wide variety of traditional flavours.

1051 Budapest, Sas utca 4.

Börze

Surrounded by imposing architectural masterpieces, Börze evokes the twentieth century charm of District V with its spacious interior boasting white marble, neutral coloured mosaics, white walls, and gold chandeliers. Their picture-perfect meals that immediately catch your eyes also embody a heavenly harmony of flavours. Börze’s Hungarian crepe stuffed with chicken is just as appealing to the eye as satisfying to your taste buds, and we assure you, this is the case with everything else on their menu. Its cottage cheese dumplings in walnut crumbs with some sweetened sour cream on top and homemade apricot jam on the side are pure perfection.

1051 Budapest, Nádor utca 23.

Magyar QTR

If you walk from Liberty Bridge towards Erzsébet híd on the quay, you’ll see a sweeping selection of international eateries, including Magyar QTR representing Hungarian cuisine. Located right next to the gently flowing river, this prestigious place will sweep you off your feet with its wide range of local artisan wine brands, the traditionally made fruit spirit known as pálinka, and a series of brilliant dishes. Visit Magyar QTR and enjoy the great atmosphere completed by the gorgeous panorama of the Danube and the beautiful Gellért Hill, while stuffing your belly full with meticulously prepared dishes and sipping the best Hungarian potions.

1056 Budapest, Belgrád rakpart 18.

21 Hungarian Restaurant

Do you want to taste traditional Hungarian dishes interpreted in a modern, 21st century way? After wandering around the Castle District of Budapest, head to 21 Hungarian Restaurant that offers all the dishes you want to try during your holiday, but they are prepared in a health-conscious manner. However light the meals are, the restaurant’s kitchen always makes sure that they taste like their authentic counterparts. The ingredients are procured from local farmers and prepared with 21st century cooking techniques and technology. The list of dishes on their menu is short but exquisite: try any, you’ll be floating on cloud nine.

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.

Ramazuri Bistronomy

Opened in the summer of 2017, Ramazuri Bistronomy is one for the gastro-tourists. Situated in the historic setting of the Buda Castle, the restaurant offers guests a toned-down contemporary ambience inside, and a friendly summer terrace outside, both perfect places to munch on Ramazuri’s inventive and dazzling fine dining bistro dishes. The tight-lipped menu draws inspiration from the latest kitchen technologies, the hottest trends in gastronomy, the most exquisite international flavours, and the most beloved Hungarian classics, ranging from chicken paprikash to Hortobágy-style crepe. In case you can never get enough of the famous neighbourhood and its venerable buildings (neither can we), Buda Castle’s Ramazuri will amaze you.

1014 Budapest, Úri utca 30.

Lakatos Műhely

One of our favourite places in Hold utca Food Market is undoubtedly Lakatos Műhely, the genuine Hungarian eatery run by Hungarian stylist Márk Lakatos. The deliciously cooked meals are served on rustic wooden trays, usually in small, cauldron-like red bowls or plain white porcelains. As far as Lakatos Műhely’s food selection is concerned, it changes day by day but always includes the bests of Hungarian cuisine, such as sausages, duck confit, goulash, and sometimes Hortobágy-style crepe. You can check their Facebook page for the daily menu, or just go straight to their food stall because chances are high that you’ll eat something good anyway.

1054 Budapest, Hold utca 13.

Fisherman’s soup is a thick and tasty soup with spicy notes. There are at least two traditional variations, named after the country’s most important rivers (Danube and Tisza), and both of them are equally authentic and unmistakably Hungarian. The main difference lies in how you handle the fish meat: you either strain it through a fine sieve or chop it in smaller pieces before adding to the stew-ish liquid. The soup’s beautiful, fiery colour and the amazing cavalcade of flavours are truly irresistible, here’s the recipe if you’d try making this dish at home.

Ingredients

2 kg deboned carp, 200 gr onion, 100 gr green pepper, 100 gr tomato, 30 gr ground paprika, 50 gr sweet red pepper purée, salt, hot red paprika

Directions

Fresh, non-refrigerated fish is key to a successful fisherman’s soup. First, clean and gut the fish. Using a sharp knife, fillet it. (If you don’t know how to do, find tutorial videos and other visual description online.) Once you are done, place the deboned fish meat skinside down on the chopping board, and cut thin vertical slits carefully to the skin. After that, cut it in 2 inch slices and season with salt.

Pour water into a larger pot, add the bones, the head of the fish, the fins, the onion rings, sliced tomato and pepper. Bring it to a boil, then add salt, sweet red pepper purée, and ground paprika. After cooking it for about an hour, sieve it into another pot using a large hole colander. Place the fish pieces, the spawn, and milt into it, and simmer until ready. In the meantime, season it with salt and hot red paprika. During the cooking process, don’t stir but shake the soup. Remove from the heat and serve the soup while hot.

Special thanks to Rosenstein restaurant for sharing their recipe with Funzine!

Wine Advisor:

A light, fresh, and elegant Kadarka from Szekszárd is the perfect choice because its flavours harmonize very well with the character of paprika, the spicier the better.

The Best Fisherman’s Soups of the City

When the days are short and the nights are long, we light candles and illuminate our houses and streets with Christmas lights to symbolically profess the supremacy of light over darkness. Similarly, when the weather is at its coldest we Hungarians turn to Fisherman’s soup, a hot and spicy broth made of river fish, to bring some warmth into our days. Consequently, the dish is a must-have at Christmas dinners. In case you can’t be bothered to prepare it yourself but don’t want to miss out on the fishy flavours, then drop by one of the following venues.

Stég

The Party District’s number one fish bar opened its doors in 2016 to supply pescetarian Budapesters with freshly caught Hungarian freshwater fish. The modestly sized but well-ventilated Gozsdu courtyard venue features dishes made from bream, catfish, pikeperch, and carp on its menu, with every fish coming from the Tisza river. Stég’s offering ranges from catfish greaves, fish taco, and fish and chips to a variety of fisherman’s soups: regardless if you’re going for the carp or the catfish version, the sumptuous, thick, and spicy broth will have you swoon over the delicious cubes of fish-fillet from start to finish. In addition to the finned fares, Stég also serves lángos and waffles, effortlessly evoking the lakeside mood even in the middle of winter!

1074 Budapest, Dob utca 13.

Bubba’s Downtown

Located just a couple of minutes’ walk from the Kálvin tér HQ of Funzine, the downtown eatery of the Bubba’s Water Grill chain is one of our favourite seafood spots in the city. Bubba’s menu is composed of two parts, one named Surf, featuring a wide array of seafood, and the other Tur”, which covers the meaty dishes. Amongst the fish-based choices at Bubba’s you can find shrimps, mussels, grilled whole fishes, and squids prepared in a variety of ways. On soup front you can choose between Captain Bubba’s seafood soup, a dish made of frutti di mare, fish fillet, tomato, and white wine, the traditional Fisherman’s soup (prepared with carp and garnished with chunks of catfish fillet), and Bubba’s daily soup.

1056 Budapest, Papnövelde utca 10.

Pest-Buda

Situated on a small, cobbled street in a World Heritage environment, Buda Castle’s Pest-Buda Restaurant has been going strong for more than 50 years, in a building which dates back all the way to 1696. The popular venue offers a spectacular gastronomic experience for those looking for traditional Hungarian cooking, preserving every flavour of its three centuries-long history. As various freshwater fish dishes have been a central element of Hungarian cuisine ever since the ancient Magyars set foot in the well-watered Carpathian basin, you’ll find a number of such traditional delicacies at Pest-Buda, including the Baja style Fisherman’s soup, catfish stew with cottage cheese pasta, and grilled pike perch fillet with prawns.

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.

Gundel Restaurant

Started off under the ownership of Ferenc Wampetich in 1894, the City Park restaurant was taken over by Károly Gundel in 1910, who transformed the eatery into an internationally renowned venue of Hungarian and French gastronomy. Besides serving a number of classic dishes, the restaurant had also created some of its own (now equally famous) recipes, including Palóc soup, Somló-style sponge cake, and the eponymous Gundel crêpe, inspired by a pancake served to Gundel by the wife of Hungarian writer Sándor Márai, Lola. In addition to the iconic dessert, Gundel Restaurant offers a multitude of mouthwatering fares, including first-rate caviars, foie de gras brulée, crayfish velouté, as well as Fisherman’s soup, garnished with homemade noodles. Yummy!

1146 Gundel Károly út 4.

Fáma

Tastefully balancing on the line between the traditional recipes of Hungarian cuisine and the exciting flavours of Asia, chef Krisztián Huszár’s contemporary eatery is one of central Buda’s most unique restaurants. The renowned venue awaits guests during lunch hours and at dinnertime with a laid-back bar atmosphere, warm interiors, an excellent wine list, and two distinct fusion menus, composed of creative food pairings such as mackerel, spinach, quail egg and violet potato dumplings, Vietnamese goulash with beef short rib, and sushi made from Tahi trout with yuzu-flavoured horseradish. Fáma’s famed Fisherman’s soup is prepared with carp, trout roe, and parsley noodles, resulting in a delicate and filling starter.

1013 Budapest, Attila út 10.

Rosenstein

What started as a simple buffet in 1996 is now one of the last, as well as one of the most popular family-owned restaurants in Budapest. Rosenstein serves the creme de la creme of traditional Jewish and Hungarian cuisines: a meal at Rosenstein feels more like Sunday supper at your grandma’s house, rather than a hearty culinary experience at Budapest’s most distinguished Jewish restaurant. Here, at this self-professed “island of tranquility” (the words of the venue’s legendary owner, Tibor Rosenstein), you can recharge your spiritual batteries while feasting on their nostalgia-flavoured fish dishes: a third of the dozen fish-based offers featured on the menu are soups, with three of them made of carp, and the fourth one prepared with catfish fillet. For the complete culinary experience order a glass of nice white wine!

1087 Budapest, Mosonyi utca 3.

21 Hungarian Restaurant

If you ever wanted to know how a traditional Hungarian dish looks and tastes like in the 21st century, then rejoice: located in the Buda Castle, the kitchen of 21 Hungarian Restaurant focuses on the native cuisine’s biggest favorites, maintaining the original taste, all the while making sure that the dishes are prepared in a healthy manner, resulting in lighter meals. To do this, they procure the ingredients from local sources, arrive to the market early in the morning, and use 21st century cooking techniques and technology. The menu is rather short: there’s no dancing around here with unnecessary dishes, only the creme of Hungarian gastronomy. Their Hungarian fish soup with homemade pasta is phenomenal, just as their crispy catfish fillet, garnished with lentil pottage and sour cream.

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.

Stand25 Bisztró

Stand25 Bisztró is located inside the Downtown Market Hall, Budapest’s own take on Lisbon’s TimeOut Market. Opened in 2017, the Széll-Szulló dream team presents all the classic dishes of Hungarian cuisine in their full, fatty, flavourful glory, from goulash soup to layered potato casserole and mangalica cheek stew, all made from locally sourced, fresh-to-the-kitchen-table ingredients. As a Christmas gift from Stand25, now you have the chance to enjoy the Michelin star-worthy flavours of the bombastic duo’s cooking in the form of their rich Fisherman’s soup, made of carp fillet and milk, in the comfort of your home. You can place your order until 18 December by sending an e-mail to info@stand25.hu.

1054 Budapest, Hold utca 13.

Első Pesti Rétesház

Although the name stands for “First Pest Strudel House”, suggesting that all they offer is an endless variety of yummy strudels, Első Pesti Rétesház (located not far away from St. Stephen’s Basilica) actually has a pretty great menu, focusing mainly on Hungarian classics. The historic building, which was built in 1812, gives home to an enormous selection of strudels, including flavors such as apple, cottage cheese and cabbage, accompanied by hearty Hungarian fares. Besides Hortobágy meat pancakes, veal paprikash and oven-baked pork knuckles, the downtown venue also serves a terrific Fisherman’s soup. Strudels and soup? That’s a Hungarian Christmas food combination if we’ve ever seen one!

1051 Budapest, Október 6. utca 22.

Náncsi Néni Vendéglője

Situated in the Buda Hills high above the city, Náncsi Néni Vendéglője is an ideal spot for meeting your caloric intake at before or after a day spent in the spirit of sledding and sleighing in the neighbourhood. Being furnished like your grandmother’s house in the countryside and offering a wide range of dishes from the cookbook of Hungary’s traditional gastronomy, Náncsi Néni is the perfect place for an uplifting outing – both in the physical and the culinary sense! Their Hungarian catfish soup is always freshly cooked for maximum flavors: the meal is prepared with catfish, bream, carp, crucian, and a dash of hot paprika to balance out the winter weather. If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big city for a couple of hours, then pay Náncsi Néni a visit!

1029 Budapest, Ördögárok út 80.

Szentendrei határcsárda

Half-an-hour’s drive from Budapest, this countryside trattoria has been enticing guests north of the quaint little town of Szentendre with open arms and an unbroken success since 1929. Although the annual vintage balls are no longer organized, the restaurant’s live gypsy orchestra still sounds as great as ever, providing a pleasant backdrop for your meal. The lavish menu is composed of a colourful variety of classic Hungarian fares, including Hortobágyi pancakes, Jókai style bean soup, pork knuckle, venison stew, and foie gras. Situated right next to the Danube, Szentendrei határcsárda also offers a respectable amount of choices when it comes to fish: from Dorozsma style carp and catfish paprikash to three types of Fisherman’s soup (all served in a cauldron), it’s impossible not to find something fishy to your liking.

2000 Szentendre, Ady Endre út 43.

Ingredients (for 4 people):

2 garlic cloves, 2 medium onions, 4 chicken thighs, 2 bell peppers, 2 tbsp. ground red pepper, 3 tbsp. goose grease, 2 tomatoes, water, 20 dl sour cream (20%), 1 tbsp. white flour, 3 pinches of salt, black pepper to taste (optional)

Directions

To start with, chop the garlic and the onions, and dice the bell pepper and the tomatoes. Halve the chicken thighs at the joint. Melt grease in a Rondeau pan that is deep enough to hold liquid, and roast the sliced pepper until it gets a nice colour. Now add the onion and the garlic, then fry them for a few minutes to get rid of all the liquids except for the grease. Take it off the heat and sprinkle with red pepper. Mix well to combine, then add the tomato slices and pour circa half dl water into the pan. (Note: water is needed because pepper would get bitter otherwise.)

Put it back on the stove, add the chicken thighs and stir the stew. Add more water to semi-cover the meat. Season it with salt, and cook it covered. Don’t forget to pour more water into the pan if necessary. It takes around 1 hour of cooking before you can do the thickening. For that, pour the sour cream into a separate ceramic or plastic bowl and mix it with white flour. Add a small amount of liquid from the chicken paprikash stock, and slowly stir it. Pour the seasoned cooking fluid on the chicken gently, and stir the mixture well. Cook it for a few more minutes, and when flavours come together, your chicken paprikash is ready. You can spice up the dish with a spoonful of magic: add fresh sour cream to tame the spiciness of the stew.

Our recommendation is to serve it with Hungarian dumplings called nokedli or galuska. Fortunately it is very easy to prepare this delicious side dish. For four people, you’ll need 4 eggs, 40 dkg white flour and around 200 ml water, as well as salt to taste. The consistency is best when it isn’t too liquid but a little sticky. First, mix the eggs and the water, then add the flour while stirring and season the mixture with salt. Finally, in a bigger pot bring water to boil, use either a dumpling cutter or a spoon to form the dumplings and put them into boiling water until they float to the top.

To compliment the dish even more, make a refreshing salad with vinegar sauce. All you have to do is to separate the leaves, season it with salt, add 3-4 dl water to cover, and pour a small amount of vinegar (5-6 tablespoons) into the mixture. Balance the flavours by adding a pinch of sugar, too.

Wine Advisor:

Chicken paprikash & sour cream taste even better if served with a full, crunchy Tokaji Furmint.

The City’s Best Chicken Paprikash

After goulash, the golden-hued chicken paprikash is definitely the most well-known culinary creation of Hungary: the creamy classic is so famous that it even got a mention in two of the past centuries’ biggest pop-cultural phenomena: it was what Jonathan Harker dined on in Bram Stoker’s Dracula, and what Benjamin Sisko cooked for his son in Star Trek! Now it’s your turn to taste the beloved dish, at one of the eleven venues we’ve gathered together.

Barack & Szilva Restaurant

Our first stop on our chicken paprikash adventure, Barack & Szilva (no, there’s no connection to the former US president, the name simply translates to Peach & Plum) is situated on the edge of the Party District, on the ground floor of an indented building. The husband-and-wife-run bistro offers flavourful Hungarian classics, alongside a smart selection of French, Italian and Jewish dishes, mirroring the diverse and colourful composition of the neighbourhood. Whether you decide to consume your hearty chicken paprikash inside the cosy restaurant, or outside in the shade of their summer terrace, the staff of Barack & Szilva will make sure that all your senses are satisfied – your sense of sound included!

1072 Budapest, Klauzál utca 13.

Magyar QTR

If you’re looking for a truly authentic gastronomic experience during your stay in Budapest, Magyar QTR restaurant should definitely be on your list! Located right next to the gently flowing Danube, this prestigious place presents the flavours of the simple Hungarian cooking in a luxurious manner. With more than 70 different kinds of local artisan wine brands, a huge selection of the famous, traditionally made fruit spirits (known as pálinka) and a series of brilliant dishes, including one of the city’s best chicken paprikash, Magyar QTR will sweep you off your feet! Visit the riverside venue and enjoy the great atmosphere completed by a gorgeous panorama of the beautiful Gellért Hill, while stuffing your belly full with meticulously prepared dishes and sipping on the best Hungarian potions.

1056 Budapest, Belgrád rakpart 18.

Két Szerecsen Bistro

Situated on Nagymező utca, also known as the Pest Broadway, Két Szerecsen Bistro blends trendy simplicity with classy sophistication, and North African ornaments with Spanish flavours. This ageless café/restaurant boasts an intimate atmosphere reminiscent of Parisian bistros, a wonderful array of Mediterranean dishes, and a neatly assorted collection of traditional Hungarian meals, accompanied by an extensive wine list and heavenly pick-me-ups. Besides being one of downtown Budapest’s best breakfast eateries, Két Szerecsen is also a great place to have a nice and filling lunch or a romantic dinner date. Their chicken paprikash, garnished with parsley dumplings and cucumber salad with sour cream, is packed with nostalgic aromas – just like the restaurant itself!

1065 Budapest, Nagymező utca 14.

Ramazuri

Opened last year, Ramazuri Bistronomy is one for the gastro-tourists. Situated in the historic setting of the Buda Castle, this culinary newcomer offers guests a toned-down contemporary ambience inside, and a friendly summer terrace outside, both perfect places to munch on Ramazuri’s inventive and dazzling fine dining bistro dishes. The tight-lipped menu draws inspiration from the latest kitchen technologies, the hottest trends in gastronomy, the most exquisite international flavours, and the most beloved Hungarian classics, ranging from chicken paprikash to Hungarian sponge cake. In case you’d rather get fed up with something other than the venerable buildings of the famous neighbourhood, Buda Castle’s Ramazuri will make sure that your wish will be granted!

1014 Budapest, Úri utca 30.

Terv Presszó

Nested in downtown Budapest, located just a stone’s throw away from St. Stephen’s Basilica, one of the must-visit gastronomic spots of the Hungarian capital has been around for quite a while now. The history of this much acclaimed, friendly place draws back to the gloomy days of mid-century Hungary: it was first opened in 1954, then soon became one of the favourite hangouts of local artists and writers. Nowadays, the charming joint keeps dazzling its guests with authentic Hungarian dishes and memorable flavours you simply can’t miss out on. Visit Terv Presszó to taste the marvelous chicken paprikash served with homemade dumplings, and enjoy each and every bite while admiring the retro feeling that envelopes every square inch of the venue!

1051 Budapest, Nádor utca 19.

Pörc & Prézli

Found within a two-minute distance from the Opera House, overlooking the dome of St. Stephen’s Basilica, Pörc & Prézli is a modern Hungarian trattoria, where the focus is on all things meat, greaves, and breadcrumbs. Led by Chef István Kristóf, Pörc & Prézli’s kitchen pays special attention to the ingredients used, obtaining them from small producers. Instead of reinventing every other classic Hungarian dish, they simply make sure to procure the finest available ingredients on the market, and prepare the meals following age-old, well-established recipes. Their huge portions, including their creamy chicken paprikash (served with buttered noodles and sour cream), are accompanied by live music in the second half of the week, as well as a flavourful list of craft beers from Szent András Brewery to help make your culinary experience complete.

1065 Budapest, Lázár utca 1.

Urban Betyár

Situated inside a beautiful art nouveau apartment building, Urban Betyár brings the essence of the Hungarian countryside to the heart of Hungary’s capital. Besides featuring an extensive list of traditional Magyar meals, the downtown cultural complex also boasts an enormous collection of relics from Hungarian folklore, ranging from ornate household objects to holographic projections depicting everyday tasks such as husking corn. Once you’re done with the informative and rich exhibition, the spacious restaurant awaits you with an authentic wine and dine experience, completed with a show kitchen. The menu includes a nice selection of steaks, foie gras cake with green apple, and smooth chicken paprikash, among many other Hungarian and international fusion dishes. If you’re searching for a place where you can not only taste, but see and learn about the traditional side of Hungarian culture, look no further than Urban Betyár.

1051 Budapest, Október 6. utca 16-18.

Aszú Restaurant

As its name suggests, at downtown’s Aszú Restaurant, everything revolves around the pride of Tokaj, Hungary’s most treasured wine specialty. The ornate, vaulted interior, complete with a mirrored wall and handcrafted wooden carvings, provides guests with a striking backdrop for their culinary exploits, but Aszú’s long summer terrace is also a great choice. The restaurant’s cooking puts the emphasis on beloved Hungarian dishes, updated in accordance with 21th century tastes. From Hortobágyi meat pancakes to goose liver cream with aszú jelly and grape salad, Aszú Restaurant presents our taste buds with a wide variety of flavours. Their chicken paprikash is prepared from chicken breast, and instead of simply garnishing it with noodles, they serve it with cottage cheese dumplings, cottage cheese mousse and cucumbers.

1051 Budapest, Sas utca 4.

Émile

Located in a century-old villa in Buda’s greenbelt, Émile combines the quality and refinement of Gerbeaud and Onyx. Whether you drop by with your business associates, family or friends, the professional and enthusiastic team of Émile will have a solution for you: the ground floor restaurant will guide you through the world of fine dining with the help of mouth-watering dishes like the green pea soup with mint crisps, the Émile burger, and the chicken paprikash; meanwhile, the gallery gives home to a uniquely furnished café where you can spend your breakfast or drink your cup of afternoon tea, while the gorgeous garden (complete with cabanas) is the perfect spot for enjoying the chirping of birds and a glass of delicious cocktail.

1026 Budapest, Orló utca 1.

Bagolyvár Restaurant

Right next to the famous Gundel Restaurant, Bagolyvár (“Owl Castle”) has been awaiting guests inside its Transylvania-inspired wooden edifice since 1913: that’s when the legendary restaurateur Károly Gundel opened the time-honoured establishment, intended for the visitors of the Budapest Zoo. The homely venue boasts an astonishing assortment of traditional dishes, flavoured with the memories of happy Sunday lunches spent at your grandma’s house. The menu includes fish dishes like pike-perch with tomato cabbage and fisherman’s soup á la Baja, as well as a range of meat-centred eats, like the lamb knuckle with mint potatoes, the breaded pork filet with mashed potatoes, and the heavenly chicken paprikash, served with homemade noodles.

1146 Budapest, Gundel Károly út 4.

Café Delion Bistro

This classy gastro-pub is one of the less talked-about treasures of restaurant-dotted Ráday utca: Café Delion Bistro was born as a collaborative effort between Kálvin Gastro Bistro and Balázs Café & Bistro, with the aim of presenting guests with good-looking, scrumptious dishes in an elegant environment. Each item on the menu is prepared from fresh, high-quality ingredients in Café Delion’s state of the art kitchen, and is served on unique plates, crafted by talented Hungarian designers. Their gigantic fried pork chops is one of the best in town, but their juicy hamburger and rich chicken paprikash, garnished with spätzle, goose liver and cucumber, are also top-notch culinary masterpieces.

1092 Budapest, Ráday utca 11-13.

Background story

Regardless of season and outdoor temperature, it’s definitely worth to cook this delicious Hungarian soup anytime of the year. But, before putting on the apron and surfing through the recipe, let’s take a step back. Named after the late Hungarian actor, Ede Újházi (1841-1915) – who was known of his love for gastronomy – the soup was first prepared at Wampetics, forerunner of the well-known Gundel restaurant. Famous Hungarian writers Zsigmond Móricz and Gyula Krúdy wrote several short stories about its origin, and interestingly enough, each and every story tells it in a totally different way. His probably most famous fabula was published in Magyar Hírlap (a Hungarian daily newspaper) in 1932, which made the dish utterly popular.

According to a legend, Ede Újházi candidly talked about his gastronomical preferences at Wampetics restaurant that he often visited, telling people how much he liked old rooster meat combined with pasta and vegetables. Once the chef overheard him, and he decided to surprise the actor with the ‘soup of his dreams’. Thanks to Újházi’s feedback, the chef could further perfection the dish which became one of the several must-taste Hungarian soups.

Fun fact

It is believed that Ede Újházi admired the soup so much that he travelled hours to purchase the best quality ingredients. Whenever he had guests precious to his heart he offered them his signature soup. The original recipe was made of rooster meat, this is why we also included it in the recipe. Nowadays the chicken version of this appetizer is more popular.

Ingredients (for 6-8 people)

1.5 kg hen/ rooster meat (cleaned, cut into pieces), 600 gr vegetables (carrot, parsnip, celery, turnip, kohlrabi), 1 onion (halved), 1 clove garlic (whole cloves), 2 green peppers, 2-3 kale leaves, 150 gr peas (frozen or fresh), 100 gr mushroom, 50-100 gr vermicelli ‘cérnametélt’ noodles, chopped parsley, 10 peppercorns, salt to taste, 1 teaspoon saffron, water to cover

Directions

Wash the meat in cold water, then cut it into pieces. Place the chopped, ready-to-cook meat in a bigger kettle, pour cold water over it, heat slowly and bring it to boil. If necessary, use a large spoon to remove the foam that forms on the surface of the soup. When the meat is almost tender – it might take a while-, add most of the vegetables (onion, carrot, parsnip, celery, green pepper, kale leaves, chopped into large pieces). Season it with salt, and jazz up the soup by adding saffron, garlic and peppercorns. (Hint: tuck them in a tea-ball, it’s a great way to flavour soup.)

Use a different pot to simmer the peas and the sliced mushrooms. Meanwhile, take the meat out of the kettle and set it aside with the vegetables (use a sieve, if needed) to cool before discarding the skin and removing the bones. Bring the chicken to a board and shred it into smaller pieces. Chop the softened veggies and place them in the bowl together with the mushroom and the peas. Onion, green pepper and kale leaves are no longer needed. Cook the vermicelli by using a few cups of the broth. Note: noodles are ready when they reach the desired consistency and only about a tablespoon of liquid is left. Finally, reheat the broth and place the meat and the vegetables into the bowl. Use freshly chopped parsley as a garnish, serve it hot.

Wine Advisor

Pair it with a dry or off-dry Hárslevelű from Tokaj or a crisp OIaszrizling from the volcanic soils of Badacsony.

The City’s Best Újházi Chicken Soups

Named after and created by 19th century Hungarian actor (and tavern owner) Ede Újházi, this chicken soup has enjoyed unbroken success ever since it was first prepared at the Wampetics Restaurant, under the watchful eyes of the legendary actor and food connoisseur. Originally made from rooster, today this rich soup is usually made from hen. It is a staple at most prestigious Hungarian restaurants, as well as an essential wedding dish. Let’s see where you can taste this historic soup in all its glory!

Pest-Buda

Situated on a small, cobbled street in a World Heritage environment, Buda Castle’s Pest-Buda Restaurant has been going strong for more than 50 years, in a building that is dating back all the way to 1696. Run by Roy Zsidai, the restaurant’s kitchen is helmed by Chef Lajos Lutz, who mastered the culinary arts at the illustrious Gundel Restaurant, the spiritual successor to Wampetics. The popular venue offers a spectacular gastronomic experience for those looking for traditional Hungarian cooking, preserving every flavour of its three centuries-long history. The polite and cheerful staff, the warm and friendly interiors, and the captivating view of Matthias Church from the terrace complement flawlessly the excellent dishes served at Pest-Buda Restaurant. After you’re done with your hearty plate of Újházi soup, order a túrós csusza and down it with a nice glass of Hungarian wine – then you’ll be ready to explore the Castle District!

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 3.

Náncsi Néni Vendéglője

If you want to enjoy your plateful of Hungarian flavours while being surrounded by history AND greenery on all sides, your place is at Náncsi Néni Vendéglője! Situated in the Buda Hills high above the city, it is a favourite summer destination of Budapesters thanks to having a spacious terrace being furnished like your grandmother’s house in the countryside, and offering a wide range of dishes from the cookbook of Hungary’s traditional gastronomy. Their “Sunday hen soup” made from free-range guinea fowl, is full of fresh vegetables, patience, and love, with its taste reminiscent of the good old times, when the whole family would gather together at grandma’s house to taste a lifetime’s worth of culinary wisdom. Round up your family members and pay Aunt Náncsi a visit!

1029 Budapest, Ördögárok út 80.

21 Hungarian Restaurant

If you ever wanted to know how a traditional Hungarian dish looks and tastes like in the 21st century then rejoice: located in the Castle District, the kitchen of 21 Hungarian Restaurant focuses on Hungarian cuisine’s biggest favourites, maintaining the original taste, all the while making sure that the dishes are prepared in a healthy manner, resulting in lighter meals. To do this, they procure the ingredients from local sources, arrive to the market early in the morning, and use 21st century cooking techniques and technology. The menu is rather short: there’s no dancing around here with unnecessary dishes, only the cream of Hungarian gastronomy. Their Újházi soup with quail egg is phenomenal, just as their pumpkin lecsó which is garnished with crunchy catfish.

1014 Budapest, Fortuna utca 21.

Két Szerecsen Bisztró

Just a couple of blocks away from both Oktogon and the majestic Opera House (currently under refurbishment), Nagymező utca’s Két Szerecsen Bisztró blends trendy simplicity with classy sophistication. This ageless café/restaurant (situated on the Pest Broadway, so called because of its row of theatres and bars and bustling nightlife) boasts an intimate atmosphere reminiscent of Parisian bistros, a wonderful array of Mediterranean dishes, and a neatly assorted collection of traditional Hungarian meals, accompanied by an extensive wine list and heavenly pick-me-ups. Besides being one of downtown Budapest’s best breakfast eateries, Két Szerecsen is also a great place to have a nice and filling lunch or a romantic dinner date at. Their hen soup à la Újházi is a heart-warming deep yellow broth, packed with nostalgic aromas, just like the restaurant itself!

1065 Budapest, Nagymező utca 14.

Budapest Bisztró

Vécsey utca’s Budapest Bisztró awaits guests hungry for some Hungarian food and an authentic bistro milieu right next to the stately Parliament building. Offering the inner city’s richest breakfast selection, creative takes on classic Hungarian dishes (prepared from high quality ingredients and with the latest technologies), and a unique assemblage of artisanal wines, Budapest Bisztró is everything you’d want from a cosmopolitan Hungarian restaurant, and more! The soothing live piano music will make every spoonful of your Újházi soup (made with noodles, shimeji mushroom and peas) taste like heaven, believe us! Whether you decide to spend your meal outside sitting on their sunny terrace, or inside getting lost in the Budapest-themed interior design, you’ll choose right.

1054 Budapest, Vécsey utca 3.

Első Pesti Rétesház

Although the name stands for “First Pest Strudel House”, suggesting that all they offer is an endless variety of yummy strudels, Első Pesti Rétesház (located not far away from St. Stephen’s Basilica) actually has a pretty great menu, focusing mainly on Hungarian classics. The historic building, which was built in 1812, gives home to an enormous selection of strudels, including flavours such as apple, cottage cheese and cabbage, accompanied by hearty Hungarian fares. Besides Hortobágy meat pancakes, veal paprikash and oven-baked pork knuckles, the downtown venue also serves a terrific Újházi hen soup. Strudels and soup? That’s a combination we can’t say no to!

1051 Budapest, Október 6. utca 22.

Börze

Opened last November, downtown Budapest’s Börze is one of the city’s newest coffeehouses. It is a beautifully designed place complete with mosaics, Thonet chairs and marble tables, oozing the kind of atmosphere you’d find if you travelled back in time to the turn of the century. Börze goes further than mere aesthetics, however: be prepared for amazing deli counters, a mouth-watering menu composed of some of Hungary’s most famous dishes, and an impeccably professional service. If you want, you can drop by Börze for a filling breakfast, an inexpensive two-course lunch, a succulent steak, or a flavourful Újházi soup made from the café’s very own farm-raised guinea fowls. You can’t go wrong, no matter what you choose.

1051 Budapest, Nádor utca 23.

Pörc & Prézli

Found within a two-minute distance from St. Stephen’s Basilica, Pörc & Prézli is a modern Hungarian trattoria, where the focus is on all things meat, greaves, and breadcrumbs. Led by Chef István Kristóf, Pörc & Prézli’s kitchen pays special attention to the ingredients used, obtaining them from small producers. You’ll find no recreated classic dishes here: their opinion is that traditional Hungarian cuisine doesn’t need to be reinvented, it only needs fine ingredients. Their huge portions are accompanied by live music in the second half of the week, as well as a flavourful list of craft beers from Szent András Brewery to help make your culinary experience complete. Start off your meal with Újházi chicken soup, continue with the stewed pork cheek with steamed cabbage and roasted dumplings, and to top it off, order a Hungarian sour cherry pie with cinnamon yogurt for a hedonistic lunch!

1065 Budapest, Lázár utca 1.

Vendéglő a KisBíróhoz

Run by one of the most important figures of the contemporary Hungarian culinary scene (and the owner of renowned Bock Bisztró), Lajos Bíró, Vendéglő a KisBíróhoz is where gourmet tastes and traditional flavours meet. Located in the green belt of Buda in calm, natural surroundings, the family-friendly restaurant offers a delicious mixture of well-known and long-forgotten Hungarian dishes with a modern twist, prepared from locally sourced ingredients and served in a stunning way. You must try their retro ox cheek, foie gras sushi and old-fashioned Újházi chicken soup! Thanks to the attentive service, the affordable prices and the homely décor, it’s the perfect place to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon in the company of your loved ones.

1125 Budapest, Szarvas Gábor út 8.

Gyergyó Kisvendéglő

Founded in 1990 by Árpád Gyurka (who was born in Gyergyószentmiklós, Romania), this family-oriented Transylvanian trattoria, situated in the Buda Hills, is a big favorite among locals, who fill up the restaurant’s interior day after day, hungry for its scrumptious lunches. The menu consists of authentic Hungarian and Székely dishes, ranging from beef cheeks stewed in stout and Újházi hen soup to stuffed cabbage and confit pork, which you are welcome to consume, sitting on the outside terrace, under the trees’ green shelter. If you want to leave behind the busy streets of Budapest for a couple of hours, Gyergyó Kisvendéglő should be on top of your list!

1026 Budapest, Pasaréti út 75.

Kistücsök

Located on the southern shores of Lake Balaton, Kistücsök is our selection’s only non-Budapester restaurant. Housed inside a 19th century building which once gave place to Balaton’s famous Postakocsi Tavern, Kistücsök has been operating since 1992, under the leadership of owner Balázs Csapody, with an ever greater success. Last year, Kistücsök has earned 14 out of 20 points in Gault&Millau’s Hungarian culinary guide, and was ranked number 12 on DiningGuide’s Top 100 list. This year the restaurant’s deputy chef, Ádám Pohner was selected as the winner of Bocuse d’Or’s Hungarian finals, meaning that he’ll represent Hungary at the European finals this June. As one of the region’s finest restaurants with Balaton’s most divine Újházi soup, Kistücsök is well worth the trip.

8636 Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 25.